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- Electric Fuel Pump (extracted from Spotted an Oka)
Electric Fuel Pump (extracted from Spotted an Oka)
- dandjcr
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Posts: 381
Tony, I had heard some have put a electric fuel pump in for some reason.
I need to replace alternator as the Turbo has been leaking, so thoughts was I might as well put at a 120a back in it.
I want 169 to finished today. However the hold up is parts.I have ordered replacement parts for the coffin panels etc etc. Just waiting for the to arrive.
I need to have 169 by 20th Sept, so I do have a dead line.
As 169 has worked all its live, I wanted to make sure when I take the family away, I minimise any potentiol problems. This is why its getting a bit of a birthday,
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August 15, 2012 at 2:19 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
Yes, I've heard that people put an electric fuel pump in to prime the system when they run out of fuel - and if you just plumb it in in series with the lift pump then if the mechanical one fails, you can just switch the priming pump on. Supposedly the mechanical one will just suck through the electric one with no problems.
Chris J
Member
Posts: 56
Tony Lee at August 15, 2012 at 8:00 PM
Yes, I've heard that people put an electric fuel pump in to prime the system when they run out of fuel - and if you just plumb it in in series with the lift pump then if the mechanical one fails, you can just switch the priming pump on. Supposedly the mechanical one will just suck through the electric one with no problems.
Hi Tony,
I put a squeeze bowl primer on my fuel line / tank, Simple, cheap and works a treat.
Regards, Chris.
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Chris and Janice Jones - OKA 166
August 16, 2012 at 8:20 AM
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Tony
picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379
August 15, 2012 at 8:00 PM
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- dandjcr
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I have a good mechanical lift pump, even got a spare, but they are not that easy to replace and just switching over to an electric pump would seem a simple answer to an outback lift pump problem.
When similar mechanical pumps have failed on my cars previously, usually the diaphragm ruptures which allows fuel to mix with the engine oil, so just fitting an electric pump in series doesn't seem like a good idea.
A parallel system to bypass the lift pump would be needed if an electric pump is to be fitted to improve confidence. That requires fuel change over taps and extra piping, (unless just replacing the lift pump entirely but that just creates a different single point of failure).
Has anyone gone down that path?
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- Outback Jack
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Just put a plate where it goes. A lot of other vehicles have done the same.
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- Peter Davis
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- Outback Jack
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Airdog
or cheaper options like this.
Electric diesel fuel pump lift pump
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- Peter and Sandra OKA 374
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About the right pressure though as has been said high volume low pressure is needed for our old style mechanically injected engines as the fuel flow cools and lubricates the injection pump, restricted fuel flow leads to injection pump wear which is why you should never wait until the engine coughs before swapping tanks.
OKA 374 LT Van, converted to camper/motorhome,
400ah Lithiums, 1100w solar, diesel cooking heating and HWS,
Cummins 6BT, Allison 6 speed auto, Nissan transfer.
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- dandjcr
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I like Peter D's idea of a fully duplicated electrical pump system but initially I was looking at these better quality pumps as a starting point, although the Goss Supercheap models might be a useful standby.
Having a 4 ft lift ability means a Walbro could be fitted up near the filter block on the engine where it (and changeover taps) would be accessible. (Some electric pumps don't have much lift/suck ability).
Another to do item.
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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Can be powered, or not.
Cheers, Peter.
OKA196 tinyurl.com/OKA196xtMotorhome
Mob.0428171214
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- OKA 138
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- Posts: 110
Cheers Dave
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- DarrenWebster303
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- Posts: 144
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- Dean and Kaye Howells
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On #413 we've got dual fuel gauges (which I haven't got round to wiring in yet) because I find the 'switched' single gauge annoying. I like to see what fuel I've got without mucking around with a switch.
With dedicated wiring from each sender unit to the dual gauges this will 'free up' the electrical change over switching for the (old) single fuel gauge sender. Why not back feed this old fuel gauge sender wire through the existing 'fuel manifold unit' (or whatever it's called) and use this to power individual dual electric fuel pumps, one at each tank ? The existing mechanical fuel pump could be bypassed and left as a second redundant pump to the two electric pumps.
No additional taps etc required and uses the original change over switch as per normal. Only potential complication could be if the fuel pump current draw is greater than the gauge switching can handle, then a relay(s) would be required.
Just a thought.
Deano
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- ABE
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Just remember that the fuel switch on the dash more than take fuel out of the left or right tank. It also returns fuel via the switch valve. So if you put in two fuel pumps that are electric then you have to have two return lines with a divider that returns it back to the tank that you are using as if you do not then you could return the excess fuel not being used, to a tank that is full already.
The switch on the dash at least in my LT's in any case can be used to activate the relay for the electric fuel pumps anyway, if you went down that track, but the dual fuel system in the OKA is a plus as it stands.
Incase anyone does not know ? The OKA fuel tank system in default mode is the left side, that is if you lose the power to change tanks, as I have done once. (Sand got into the plug on the connection on the fuel divider switch which has one section without one plug not being used and it is filled with silastic that came out, and sand and sea water got into it and I had to replace the whole unit.) Fuel is then automatically taken from the left tank in that case. That is why I run the right hand tank first, it is also the side with more weight in a bus configuration with seats, as we have more passengers on the right side the bus.
I also have the availability to be able to pump, electrically, to the left hand side, so it all reverts to the default setting. This is nice and simple and means I do not run out of fuel. The pump can also be used as the main fuel pump for the engine if the mechanical one falls by changing 1 hose.
Regards
ABE Tony
ABE Tony
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- Peter Davis
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- Posts: 271
The only info I can find on the mechanical pump is 6/10 psi static pressure and 4.5psi test pressure. No flow rate.
If one puts a pump in say 14psi and too high a flow, would I be right in saying the excess will pass through the injector pump and go back to the tank, or can it damage the injector pump. Is it better to over size rather than under size starving the engine.
Also what device did you install to kill the pump in case of an accident. Looking to find a 3 way oil pressure switch that allows starting but turns off when oil pressure is zero.
Candidates
Walbro FRB-5 8-11psi 170lph dry lift 1.2m pump cycles when fuel is demanded. $? stockiest ?
Carter rotary P4600HP 6-8psi 379lph $190
Carter rotary p4070 4-8 psi 180lph $145
Facet red top 6-7psi 132 lph $259
Goss ge003 5-9 psi 140lph $216
Cheer
Peter
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- Len208
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- Peter and Sandra OKA 374
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There is a case for "regular" replacement of the mechanical fuel pump as wear can cause fuel and oil leaks, even a pin hole in the diaphragm can lead to engine oil dilution and subsequent engine damage.
The mechanical pump also quite often ends up as the lowest point of the fuel system after the tank and can also suffer from any crap collecting there and subsequently affecting pump operation.
I carry an electrical pump and enough bits to fit it if the need arises.
OKA 374 LT Van, converted to camper/motorhome,
400ah Lithiums, 1100w solar, diesel cooking heating and HWS,
Cummins 6BT, Allison 6 speed auto, Nissan transfer.
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- OKAPETE
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- Posts: 121
....Hasn't missed a beat since. Being Local you are more than welcome to pop over and check it out Peter. Pete.
Chaplain. Won x One Chaplaincy.
AM SAE-A. AAFRB.
Oka 383. In process.... Cummins 6bt. Allison 2500 6spd. LOMAX 3:1 205 T/case. Dana 80 F & R.
Oka 358. Van. Perkins. swift turbo intercooled. NP205 conversion. LSD F&R. Camper conversion in progress.
LIFE.....is keeping OKApied.
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- Ralley
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- Posts: 367
Rob
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- dandjcr
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Peter Davis wrote: Walbro FRB-5 8-11psi 170lph dry lift 1.2m pump cycles when fuel is demanded. $? stockiest ?
Goss ge003 5-9 psi 140lph $216
Cheer
Peter
Peter, Flexible Drive (P33 for specs) sell Walbro pumps. Don't know their price but ebay sources are likely to be cheaper. (I also bought new throttle cable from them).
Various Goss pumps are commonly sold by SuperCheap etc, at probably half the price you mentioned.
David
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- Peter334
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- Peter Davis
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- Posts: 271
I thought maybe a blockage at the filter but it ran fine after filling up.
I thought maybe fuel pump was getting weak and was struggling when the tank was lower. Hence the latest looking into electric fuel pumps.
However after talking to a diesel injection firm, they advised not to change to an electric fuel pump and that my problem will more than likely be a cracked fuel tank pickup line. They said that an electric pump will have too high a pressure/flow especially at idle, low speed/power.
Any thoughts?
Has anyone removed the fuel pickup without dropping the fuel tank.
Cheers
Peter
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