Shackle pins and bush

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01 Nov 2012 15:36 #1 by dandjcr
dandjcr created the topic: Shackle pins and bush
Forum Home > On the Road > Shackle pins and bush

Chris J
Member
Posts: 56
Hi All,
looking for New Rear Shackle pin and bush set for XT OKA166.
Regards, Chris.

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Chris and Janice Jones - OKA 166





August 26, 2011 at 4:51 PM Flag Quote & Reply

OKAPETE .......... Peter and Sharon Furlong.
Member
Posts: 33
Hey Chris, Just ring Okapaul at East Coast Oka Spares. 0418125428. cheers Pete.
August 26, 2011 at 5:14 PM Flag Quote & Reply

David Hallandal
Member
Posts: 133
Hi Chris
Have a look at this 20mm pin upgrade kit
www.oka4wd.com/apps/forums/topics/show/3...anger-conversion-kit
David Hallandal
August 26, 2011 at 9:26 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Dean & Kaye Howells
Member
Posts: 79
Hi David,definitely an improvement on the original, though the idea of plastic bushes doesn't do a lot for me but undoubtedly better than the original grey fibrous ones. Any idea of the comparable shear strength of the pin at the grease hole?
Deano

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August 27, 2011 at 10:11 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Richard & Beverly House
Member
Posts: 23
Hi Chris, Years ago we changed to Hi Tensile Caterpillar Bolts and Polyeurothane Bushes and ended all problems and no more greasing Cheers Richard
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Richard and Beverly House Oka 080

August 27, 2011 at 11:17 AM Flag Quote & Reply

David Hallandal
Member
Posts: 133
Sorry no, on the Shear strength at the grease hole, I have not seen a problem through the grease hole on a genuine OKA pin and as these are bigger diameter then should not be a issue. I have been running poylurethane bushes for years now with great success. and this kit was fitted to Peter Wrights Vehicle a few years back after issues with the original pins failing, Alltrac 4wd Receintly fitted a set to another OKA receintly and were very happy with the results. I am selling the Kits for Peter Wright (OKA 196) while he is overseas, he may have more information on the kits
August 27, 2011 at 2:28 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Paul Scherek
Member
Posts: 136
Richard & Beverly House at August 27, 2011 at 11:17 AM
Hi Chris, Years ago we changed to Hi Tensile Caterpillar Bolts and Polyeurothane Bushes and ended all problems and no more greasing Cheers Richard
Hi Richard,
Could you tell me more please? I would be soooo happy to get rid of all the grease that goes everywhere from the shackles.
In particular, could you tell me any part numbers please if you have them?
Thanks,
Paul
August 27, 2011 at 3:47 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Richard & Beverly House
Member
Posts: 23
Hi Paul,
The Shackle Pins are Caterpiller Bolts 5.5 inch X 5/8 inch and the Polyeurothane bushes I had made up to fit.
The Bushes vary between the fixed end of the spring and the top and bottom of the hanger.
Hope this helps
Cheers Richard



August 27, 2011 at 11:58 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter_n_Margaret
Member
Posts: 198
Hi Deano. The shear strength of the 20mm pin is about 60% higher than the 16mm pin (see the shear strenghts in the other thread). The load areas are at the hangers, so it is unlikely that the grease hole will ever be the weak point.
I had a couple of goes with the bush design. The first were with split bushes with flanges, like the normal after market ones. The first problem is that you loose the grease out through the gap so you need an additional metal sleeve to stop that. The second problem was with the flanges which can get crushed by the side thrust loads.
As a result, my second attempt uses the single bush and case hardened steel thrust washes like the original OKA design. The single bushes also increase the bearing surface area. I also went up in bush hardness a bit.
I have been using the current version for about 3 years now without a failure (although I have not seen the vehicle for a while to check). Some bushes I am lubricating, some I am leaving dry. So far I can't see the difference, but they should last longer if greased regularly.
I originally made these stictly for my own use, but a few mates wanted them too, so there are now a few kits available that David has. It is a fairly simple changeover. The hardest part is drilling out the holes in the hangers from 16mm to 20mm, a once off job. My mate who does the machining suggested the little bullet shaped end piece that fits onto the pin when you insert it. It is brilliant and lines up all the bits and protects the pin threads.

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Cheers Peter, OKA196 Motorhome. www.oka4wd.com/xt196.htm



August 28, 2011 at 5:49 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Paul Scherek
Member
Posts: 136
Thanks Richard, much obliged.
I see Peters kit can also be used grease-free. Maybe I should just accept a bit of mess from greasing now and then!
Cheers, Paul
August 28, 2011 at 7:33 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
I concur, Peter's 20 mm shackle pins are much stronger and better designed than the originals.
I've had them for over 2 years without any further problems (we had also broken several of the original16 mm pins).
There is some mechanical work in fitting them and there is a description and some photos in our blog entry here, as part of our spring replacement process.
Regards,
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

August 28, 2011 at 7:37 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Dean & Kaye Howells
Member
Posts: 79
Thanks Peter for the info. No argument about the bigger bolts being stronger. Why I asked about the shear strength at the grease hole is that this is where I have just recently had a shackle bolt fail. It struck me that this was an obvious weak point. As far as I can tell the shackle bolt is basically a M8.8 high tensile bolt with a couple of holes drilled in it and mine broke cleanly at the drill hole. Fortunately I had a spare and as only the outer half of the bolt had fallen out it was a relatively simple job to bang in a new one pushing the old inner half out as it went in. My habit of walking round the vehicle when I stop paid dividends as it meant that I got onto the problem before the whole lot collapsed.
What really intrigued me here was I had broken the rear spring front pin on the RHS. This is the 'drive' shackle pin for the rear, a function often not appreciated. The driving force of the rear axle is applied to the body of the vehicle through this point and the one on the LHS which 'pushes' the vehicle forward. Similiarly, when in 4WD, the front axle provides drive to the vehicle via its rear shackle bolts to 'pull' the vehicle forward. So not only do these bolts provide support for the weight of the vehicle they also take the strain of moving the vehicle as well.
My shackle pin broke whilst I was driving on an extremely corrugated piece of road. It was the Anne Beadell Highway between Emu and the Taralinga Conservation Reserve in SA, probably the roughest piece of 'Highway' I have ever driven on. My thought was that it was the shock load on the shackle pin from the drive energy of the vehicle that caused it to fail as the vehicle jolted from one corrugation to the next. What was interesting was that I had changed back to 2WD that morning as the terrain though rough was basically firm, hard and flat and I saw no need for 4WD in this situation. Silly me. I reckon that had I stayed in 4WD the drive load would have been shared with the front pair of 'drive' shackle pins and I would probably not have broken a shackle pin.
Any thoughts on this scenario ? Are the most commonly broken shackle pins the rear front pins ? and does this most commonly happen when in 2WD ?

Deano
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August 28, 2011 at 11:10 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter_n_Margaret
Member
Posts: 198
Deano, the only one I ever broke was the front of the rear LH spring. It broke at the first thread and I reckon they were all too short.
You are correct. The original 16mm pins and my 20mm replacements are standard M8.8 high tensile bolts. If you want even stronger ones without lube capability you could use Umbrako grade 12s. Just need to find them with hex heads so you can lock the rotation or make up something else to hold the heads.
I always have 4WD engauged on the dirt whether it is needed or not. Shares the loads, better handling and MUCH better braking.

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Cheers Peter, OKA196 Motorhome. www.oka4wd.com/xt196.htm



August 29, 2011 at 5:11 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Our 2 broken bolts have been at the front of the rear springs, one at the end of the threaded section and one across the grease hole. Several others were badly worn on the threads because they were too short. The load should be on the flat shoulder not the threaded area of the bolt.
Apart from the length and strength of the bolts, if the bolt holes are elongated or oval, higher shock loads will be applied to the bolt.
Bushes or plates welded to the chassis mounts (especially the front of the rear springs) will increase the contact area, lessen the wear and spread the shock loads on the bolts. Larger diameter bolts will help as well.
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David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

August 29, 2011 at 7:18 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Alister McBride
Member
Posts: 97
Hi all,
Anyone know where you can get hardened shim and thrust washers from? Doing the 20mm shackle pin upgrade while rebuilding #57...
Cheers,
Alister
May 26, 2012 at 11:08 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter_n_Margaret
Member
Posts: 198
All included in the kits that David H. has Alister.
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Cheers Peter, OKA196 Motorhome. www.oka4wd.com/xt196.htm



May 26, 2012 at 10:07 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Alister McBride
Member
Posts: 97
Found them... Thanks Peter!
May 28, 2012 at 7:05 PM

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
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