Replacing Clutch

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30 Oct 2012 11:18 #1 by dandjcr
dandjcr created the topic: Replacing Clutch
Forum Home > On the Road > Replacing Clutch

rowan
Member
Posts: 10
hi every one im new to the whole OKA thing and looking forward to the whole experience. My truck is not driving ATM as i brought it needing a new clutch put in it. I just got one sent to me and im going to have a go putting it in myself so if there are any helpful tips out there that would be great. thanks. It also has a tipper back on it whitch im keen on getting rid if and putting a dual cab and smaller tray on it.
June 3, 2012 at 7:43 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Hal Harvey
Site Owner
Posts: 509
Rowan,

There are a few pages of how-to regarding clutches. If you go to the Forum Listings pages and click through to the clutch subjects, you'll get to every one of them; and one example is here.
--
Hal

June 3, 2012 at 8:10 PM Flag Quote & Reply

joseph baz
Member
Posts: 331
Hi Rowan,welcome to the group,what model is your OKA?,one thing that you have to keep in mind ,is that everything on a OKA is bloody heavy and unless you have the proper workshop equipment is better to remove gear in stages like transfer,gearbox rather than as an assembly,are you replacing the clutch with an organic or ceramic?,personally I wouln't use a ceramic clutch in a 4x4.
Cheers,Joe
June 3, 2012 at 8:13 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
Hi Rowan
I have mine out at the moment.
I would support the idea of separating the components unless you can get a lift from above and lower it on a sling or you have a really big transmission jack. All components are heavy, high and awkward. You won't want to drop this stuff. Not only because you might be under it, but because you could crack a housing if dropped onto concrete.
You will have to move the oil tank aside for the power steering to get at the bolt behind it if you have an LT, don't know about XT.
Whle you are in there, pull the flywheel off and check the bolts that mount the engine plate to the back of the engine. Remove each bolt individually ,clean out the thread thoroughly and torque it down using loctite. Do this one at a time, don't remove all at once because if you disturb the plate you will have a dial gauge out getting the run out sorted.
You will also need to make up a tool to line up the clutch plate with the pilot bearing.
Use loctite on the flywheel bolts and the pressure plate bolts and torque down correctly, also make sure that the clutch is adjusted properly so it has sufficient freeplay.
This is also a good opportunity to check the uni joints.

--
Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



June 3, 2012 at 8:32 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
Rowan,
just thought of this today when I was putting the clutch back in.
You should really get the face of the flywheel machined, particularly if you have a ceramic clutch fitted. I would suggest that you replace it with an organic type in order to get a smoother take-up and take-off. anyway the ceramic type will have worn the face of the flywheel and impregnated it with some copper off the clutch plate. If you fit an organic type the clutch plate is slightly bigger in diameter and will not sit flat against the flywheel until it wears off material around its outer edge. Below is the old ceramic clutch beside the replacement, as you can see they are very different.

The pressure plates are also very different shown below. The organic type has a bunch of conventional coil springs, but the Spicer ceramic type has a disc that acts as the spring (angle ring).

The photo below shows the clutch plate in position on the flywheel, held in alignment with the pilot bearing with the dummy spigot I had made.

I got the parts from Paul Nott who has been more than helpful. He even answers dumb questions, of which I had a couple.


--
Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



June 4, 2012 at 7:18 PM Flag Quote & Reply

rowan
Member
Posts: 10
thanks for all that i used paul and found him very helpful
i got the box out this avo still have the hard bit of the bell housing
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June 4, 2012 at 10:09 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Dean & Kaye Howells
Member
Posts: 79
Have a real close look at the rear main, a hell of a lot easier now than later.:) OKA Paul's certainly the man for 'the good oil'.

Deano
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June 5, 2012 at 5:24 PM Flag Quote & Reply

rowan
Member
Posts: 10
well after washing all the greses off including in my ear i got the bell housing off this avo now in off to get the flt wheel mecheaned pick up a rear main and now i will have the fun of putting it all back together

June 7, 2012 at 11:11 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter Davis & Serena Fraser
Member
Posts: 39
Rowan, while you have the clutch and flywheel out it would be a good idea to have them balanced. Mine were out by quite a bit. It removed a fair bit of vibration and wasn't very expensive. The people machining the flywheel should be able to balance or should know where you could get it done.
June 8, 2012 at 4:24 PM Flag Quote & Reply

rowan
Member
Posts: 10
well its raining like u know what though i now have all the parts i need to get the oka running and im keen. i have just finished putting a tarp over the oka. i will be starting in the morning.
June 12, 2012 at 9:31 PM Flag Quote & Reply

rowan
Member
Posts: 10
well oka #366 is back on the road and running well












June 13, 2012 at 8:10 PM Flag Quote & Reply

James & Usha (THEByleDuct)
Administrator
Posts: 161
Well done mate. An OKA is a great vehicle to work on yourself. Keep updating us how you go with it.
--
OKA #072

June 13, 2012 at 8:36 PM

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