Turbo Exhaust

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Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 391
I have just finished replacing the bush that goes on the Turbo and Exhaust,

Its leaking already. Has anyone got rid of the joint and just put a normal Exhaust with a flexible join?
Stole this picture from the Net, I will get a better picture later of mine. Looks like it is leaking and pretty common I think to leak.




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October 27, 2012 at 8:26 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
OBJ, I filled the gap with exhaust cement/goo and held it in place with wires. It reduced the leakage and has lasted several years.
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David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

October 27, 2012 at 8:50 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Chalkie

Posts: 22
Did the same and stopped the leak(for now) Dogey design.
October 28, 2012 at 4:57 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 391
Yes, I think design would be fine in a Genset or water pump. But in the OKA, there is no where for the exhaust to move around apart from this join.
Thats why I was thinking of getting rid of it and put in 180 degree bend, then a flexible join bolting up to the three bolt holes down near the starter motor.
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October 28, 2012 at 6:26 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter & Sandra James Oka 374
Member
Posts: 414
That's the exhaust on 374 and yes is leaks but seems to leak only when cold, must expand enough to mostly seal when hot.
I thought about wrapping a piece of wet muffler bandage round it but haven't got around to it yet.
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Oka 374 LT Van

October 28, 2012 at 9:09 PM

OBJ, did you ever get around replacing the exhaust seal/bend with a flexible, well sealed pipe?

It's on my to do list to fix as the muffler goo is starting to break up after several years.

David
Not an exact answer to your question but my fix to this issue as advised by Paul Nott.
Use a muffler bandage or better still the rope like stuff that seals doors on wood heater. Wet the bandage and wrap tightly around the joint and hold in place with a wide stainless clamp, the type with a bolt and nut, not a worm drive type.
Have only done 5000km with this setup but all is good so far

Thanks Peter, sounds a bit easier that replacing the bend.

The "asbestos" rope should maintain some sealing as the pipes expand and contract.

Its not asbestos rope as it does not exist any more, it fibrous heater rope, and the hose clamps you refer to are called tee bolt clamps, ive have changed all mine to them alot better clamp, you talk about the seal i removed mine the other day to fit the new turbo and found that the seal is a slight larger on the inner side and fitted snug in the turbo and bend i had no leaks at all and it was second had from the old motor which had done 385000 ks, now mine is straight to exhaust pipe no cast iron bend , less weight, less heat, cheers peter

I havent done anything yet.

Any pictures Peter? What Turbo did you go for?

Ihave already blogged about or turbo ,its a gt 2860 ,5 bolt exhaust flange i have some photos of the work in progress as i have a second motor all the work is done on that to get it right ,boost starts at around 1700rpm and peeks at around 2200rpm alot more low down when you need it ,i will try to show some photos soon ,cheers peter

Ok thanks Peter, must have missed it.

Here are some photos of the new gt2860 turbo going onto the second spare motor , the inlet of the turbo is 80mm outlet is the same as the old one , had to make some addaptors to suit one for exhaust and one for inlet ,cut down exh flange bolts , two long studs for inlet and bolts for the rest , the pipe work is on its way ,its hard to do anything this close to xmas,cheers peter

Here are some photos of the new gt2860 turbo going onto the second spare motor , the inlet of the turbo is 80mm outlet is the same as the old one , had to make some addaptors to suit one for exhaust and one for inlet ,cut down exh flange bolts , two long studs for inlet and bolts for the rest , the pipe work is on its way ,its hard to do anything this close to xmas,cheers peter

Hi Peter

Certainly looks easier having that spare motor. I am also doing the same mod, but can not get the compressor outlet to vent towards the manifold as you have. It appears that your waste gate actuator bracket is different to mine. Was your unit off any particular vehicle? I also found that the gear linkage is fouling the turbo when going into 4th and 5th gears. Will be interested to see how yours goes, as I mounted mine directly to the exhaust manifold and ported the Turbo intake.

Cheers
Chris

Chris when my turbo was fitted it also fouled on the gear linkage. They had to bend it and put a recess in the engine bay side plate beside the drivers seat. It is a snug fit in the LT.

Chris i also will have to mod the gear link ,if you look at the inlet side to the manafold the addaptor is on 2 angles first from back to front it tapers then the front side of the addaptor it tapers again from top to bottom to make the two line up properly as you see i have used stud and nuts and bolts for the rear ,the turbo is off and nissan skyline but the turbo fits a number of vehicals ,doing the exhaust fit up now 63mm tube 90 degrees cut and flared to suit ,with a tig you can weld any thing, i also have a preheater on the inlet from the square to round ,also did you look for the hoses for the water/oil, i have done away with the old air filter pipe works and are useing silcone pipe 80 mm,1x 45degrees and 1x90 degrees i hope i am helping cheers peter

Thanks Guys

Keep the photo's coming they all help. I stopped for a while till I get this waste gate bracket sorted. I have attached a few photo's showing how I attached my Turbo it does mean that mods to the gearshift should be minimal as it only just touches. But it does show I think how my waste gate actuator differs from Pete's.









Cheers

What's the difference between the turbos you guys are fitting and the original unit?
thanks,
frank

Frank

The major difference is the GT2860 is a much more modern design fitted with a waste gate, roller bearing and water cooled. In theory this Turbo should spin up earlier and maintain its boost right through the rev range.

Cheers
Chris

Chris you show your turbo with the oulet of the blower facing downwards it can be rotated to suit the manifold , did you cut the studs off and retap out the holes to suit , and it looks like you might not have to do any mods to your gear link mine took me 4 hrs to do and now plenty of clearance it was the hardest thing and time consuming ,Frank the the other differance with then both is that while the standard takes a while to get its puff this one dose not, the lower the turbo starts the better you are off no need to rev the living daylights out of it , less wear, less fuel .cheers peter

Hi Pete

Yes it only just hits the turbo but will still have to be modified a bit.

I re studded the manifold and then ported the Turbine inlet to match the exhaust manifold. Can supply a photo if anyone is interested.

No I can not rotate it far enough it fouls on the Compressor outlet. I can see by yours that the bracket is slightly different to mine. So I have been trying to source a Skyline bracket, no luck so far.
I only just read your reply to my queries so I ordered the gaskets but not too sure which items to get re the water and oil lines as that item had gone. Can you give me some info on that.

Cheers

Hi Chris just been on ebay and looked for your pipe works you need and they have a few make sure that the threads are the size you need i found mine were 14mmx 1.5mm thread pitch it is an odd size i could not get it anywhere they also have an adjustable accuator there on the turbo site the number for the hose are 290835929215 turbo oil& water line nissan silvia w/garrett gt28r it comes with all the gear you need , to see the bracket you need to put in garrett turbo 28r and it should pop up

what AR ratio GT280R did you buy?