Free wheeling hubs

This happened with the axle upgrades, not the stock setup.

I hear what you're saying Joe and i thought the same. I did a complete rebuild with all correct bearings and parts etc, i was being advised by Paul K to grind 1/4" (from memory) off the outer end of my passenger side shaft. Wanting everything to be standard i didn't. Low and behold the end of the shaft has been wearing on the inside of my free-wheeling hub ever since. It's a job i'm going to get back to at some stage.

Does it need 1/4" off, or does it just rub on the edge and need a chamfer?
There is a circlip type of groove that is not too far back... maybe 8-mm??

Roughly 1/4" off from memory as the longer axle on the passenger side walks outwards a little...

I think what Joe is referring to here is that if the inner wheel bearing cup is incorrect ie. too shallow/thinner/not as wide as it should be then the whole hub assembly is consequently moved inboard by this difference in thickness. A result of this is that the FWH assembly is also moved inboard by the same amount but as the axle stays in the same position clearance becomes an issue.

Deano

Thanks Deano. Joe's point was understood and i was pointing out my experience in opposition. But what you say does give the solution of making a 1/4" backing ring (or getting a 1/4" 'thicker' bearing cup if possible) to correct the fowling problem on the passenger side of some vehicles. It could be argued this would alter handling (scrub radius and camber etc) but it's not a racing car and definitely not built to the same accuracy as one so i don't think it would matter too much...

Cheers, alister

The 32 and 35 spline hubs look to be the sams length... is it the bigger diameter that makes them rub?

I understood it needed a chamfer.
My problem first got noticed in the middle of the Simpson so I took the easy way out and skimmed a bit off the plastic part on the actusting mechanism. Obviously not the best approach but it did the job and saved having to grind the shaft in place with the risk of contamination

Holmz, it's apparently not that they are too long just that the passenger side shaft which is the longer length from pumpkin to freewheeling hub walks a tiny bit outwards and rubs, hence shortening it a bit. Anyway, it might not happen to everyone. If you take a bit off the freewheeling hub be careful the spring etc doesn't come off...

Sorry for the late reply,I'm currently doing a partial rebuilt on a Dana 60 but will have to do a full rebuilt next week and will be able to take measurements,already discovered there is some dimensions discrepancies between the Yukon alloy and Yukon 4340 chrome molly outer , Tony,do you know the brand of your upgraded outer?
The Nylon thrust washer stops the axle from "walking" out
Cheers,Joe

Joseph Baz wrote: Sorry for the late reply,I'm currently doing a partial rebuilt on a Dana 60 but will have to do a full rebuilt next week and will be able to take measurements,already discovered there is some dimensions discrepancies between the Yukon alloy and Yukon 4340 chrome molly outer , Tony,do you know the brand of your upgraded outer?
The Nylon thrust washer stops the axle from "walking" out
Cheers,Joe

I am eagerly watching...

I destroyed a warn locking hub and the outer axel months ago...
Replacing them with a 35spilne Yukon outer drive axel and Yukon locking hub.

They measure the same as the 32-spline in length...

I measured mine and compared them before I installed the new 35 spline outers and the only difference is the diameter, they were identical in every respect. So that is why bevelling the outer end of the axle stops the problem.
You would think that a new free wheeling hub built for the 35 spline would clear everything but maybe the only thing they changed was the splined collar the axle drives through.

So bevel back ~2-mm and down ~2-mm to leave a ~3-mm wide bevel looking at it at the 45 degree angle?
Or more like 1/8" back?

Yes, just leave enough so the circlip groove isn't interfered with or weakened, a couple of mm back seemed to do the trick.

I'm a total newbie to OKAs, so please forgive me if this is a dumb question.

I haven't seen FWHs since my G60 Patrol. The LRs I have don't need them. So, am I correct in saying that the OKA transfer cases are a positive 4WD engagement, and not a centre diff set up as found in Defenders and early RRs and Discos?

I doubt if LRs LT230 T/C would stand up to the demands of an OKA, but is there any T/C that will go in one with a centre diff?

'Tins', the Oka does not have constant 4WD so therefore no centre diff.

The Landrover LT230 transfer case is barely adequate for the Defender/Disco and is renowned for its inherent centre diff thrust washer and intermediate shaft/case body failure. It wouldn't last 5 minutes in an Oka even if you did install one.

There are three different transfer cases fitted in the Oka depending on model. The XT Oka has a Chrysler new process 205 (NP205) transfer case and it is the 'lay down misere' pick of the bunch It's been used in many US 4WD's and International trucks and it is legendary for its good design, reliability and power handling. The LT Oka has a much less common Rockwell transfer case (as Oka couldn't source NP205's at the time) and whilst functional it's not a patch on the NP205 for efficiency, power handling, service life or any other parameter you'd like to compare with the NP205. Many Oka owners ditch the Rockwell when it fails and replace it with a NP205. The NT Oka and one or two LT Okas have a Vickers (South Africa) built HD150 transfer case, a true monster of a TC and so called because it weighs in at150 Kg or twice the weight of a NP205. #413 has one of these and I've an ex RAAF Inter 1510A NP205 TC to go in when time allows

There were issues with some early NP205 TC's that had weak (low spline count) input shafts though I would think (hope) most had been upgraded by now.

The only possible constant 4WD TC I think that could be easily fitted to the Oka would be one from the British Reynold Broughton RB44 which I think has the same engine/gearbox as the Oka. But as this vehicle was widely considered to be an absolute disaster transplanting its TC to the Oka may be a a backward step. I don't know of anyone who has tried.


Deano

Thanks, Deano. A great reply. I agree re the LT230. The internals can be strengthened, but then the casing becomes suspect. I only asked as I always found FWHs to be a PITA, but they are easy to change and a couple of spares won't take up any room.

I guess I have just been spoilt by the CDL system in the LR.

Reynold Boughton RB44. Well, that sent me down a rabbit hole. Thing had a Perkins Phaser 110MT, Spicer T5 290 and a chain driven T/C. Most of the problems seemed to come from PTO fitments, from a casual read. Seems quite a few have ended up as expedition vehicles. As there were only around 2000 made I'm guessing finding a T/C would be difficult. Interesting read though.

Tony,do you know the brand of your upgraded outer?

No Joseph, I took them back from the US on the plane and paperwork is home and I won't be there for a few months yet

Actually found the email

Cart Items SKU Qty Item Price Item Total
Dana 60 Front Wheel Bearing and Seal kit
AK D60F 2 $53.00 USD $106.00 USD
Dana 60 Inner Axle Seal for 35 spline shafts
NS 470682 2 $10.08 USD $20.16 USD
Dana 60 Spindle Dust shield, Mud slinger
DS 37308 2 $2.50 USD $5.00 USD
GM/Dodge Dana 60 35 Spline Upgrade Kit w/ Locking Hubs
(Hub Options: Warn Premium, U-joint Options: Dana Spicer Greasable, Stub Options: Yukon 4340)
1 $533.00 USD $533.00 USD

If one is going from 32 to 35 spline there's is also the Yukon brand locking hubs...

But "I dunno" if they are better, same or worse than the Warn units.