Dana 80
- Alister McBride
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Chris, everything is bigger than the Dana 70U which the OKA uses except the hubs, wheel bearings and brakes. If it were a D70HD it would be a different story but that's not what we have, see data below:Chris James wrote: Hello all,with all this discussion on the 80 diffs,can someone tell me the difference between a 70 and an 80? I was led to believe that the only difference was the tube wall thickness, from 1/2inch to 9/16inch. Bearings,seals,axles,gears etc.all being the same.Have I been led up the garden path ?????? Chris
Diff D70u D80
axle splines 32 35
ring gear 10.5" 11.25"
pinion splines 29 37
pinion shaft 1.75" 2"
Quoted from Petefox:
Chris
the Dana axles are all different:
Dana 80 rear - ring gear size 11.25" - gross axle weight 10,100 lbs - 4590 kg
Dana 70 rear - ring gear size 10.5" - gross axle weight 8.580 lbs - 3900 kg
Dana 70 front - ring gear size 10.75 - gross axle weight 8,400 lbs - 3818 kg
10.5", same as all D70's
Dana 60 front - ring gear size 10.1" - gross axle weight 7,350 lbs - 3340 kg
9.75", there was a 'Dana Super 60' also known as the 'Dana 61' produced which had 10.1" or 10" ring gear from memory. Otherwise, the standard one in the OKA from the manual states a GAWR of 2400kg, the bear OKA weighs in at about 2000kg on the front axle without passengers and luggage, ie good luck staying under 2400kg while anything including passengers infront of the rear axle line contributes to the front axle load! Also, since when does anyone want to stay 'on the limit' of anything mechanical, everyone's experience counters that argument. Also, GAWR's are heavily variable and dependant on components, vehicle and tyres so those shown above are upper limit values as seen by the discrepancy between the two D60 GAWR's shown!
the above data is for new Dana axles in 2012 , which may be different from that fitted to our Okas.
A 'Dana 80' front axle is not a thing that is made by Dana, though some specials are built aftermarket in the US.
The 'Dana' axles that Paul supplies are not the same as these and therefore his weight rating may be different from these. Paul uses imported mechanical components but the tubes, housings, carrier, knuckles and hubs etc are all made in Aust.
"I would love Dana 80`s, and think they are more suited to an OKA, but the cost is the problem. Last time I checked it was 10 to 15k I think."
Lobo, the cost of a pair of Dana 80's is well above these prices. I disagree, i've spent far below these prices.
Alastair,
I don't doubt that the Dana 60 experiences all of the problems that you mentioned and probably more, but according to the data above they exceed the Oka load limit of 2400kg by a margin of 39%. If these figures hold true for the Oka version of the axle.
Perhaps at least some of the issues you mention are to do with age/metal fatigue and or abuse/overloading.
Pete, as stated above the pure fact that it is impossible to not overload the front axle would indicate that yes the axles fail due to "abuse/overloading" as one majour cause and yes this leads to premature "age/metal fatigue" of various parts. Also, add in bigger tyres which a lot of people are doing (extra leverage on drivetrain) and possible power upgrades (extra power through drivetrain) and things get even worse!
Look, everyone do their research and make their own decision, i'm just trying to put the facts up here and show why some people choose to upgrade...
Also, thanks to our Esteemed Moderators for their assistance, our newly fashioned gallery looks fantastic!
Happy OKAing to all!
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- Outback Jack
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- Joseph Baz
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Cheers,Joe
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- Alister McBride
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"so what vehicle to you have?",
i replied "an OKA, do you know of them?",
"yeah they have that 6.5" on 8 by 5/8" wheel stud pattern don't they?",
"Yep, that's the one, it's pretty common in F-series, Dodge's and Chev's",
another guy in the store chimes in "aren't they the one's that bend front diff's?"
I laughed thinking of this forum and said "yeah they can, that's why some people make a dana 70 or 80 front diff..."
Anyway, thought it was funny that we'd just been discussing this here and a random guy said something like that... I guess stereotypes are there based on previous form.
Cheers,
Alister
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- dandjcr
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I have replaced the upper nylon king pin bushes which helped a little, but short of replacing the axle, has anyone installed these camber shims [from Moog (steel) or Spicer (plastic)] to correct the lean-in?
Other solutions are available, such as camber adjusting lower bearing pins from Ingalls Engineering :
However I would not consider using this type as it relies on an eccentric bolt to set and maintain the camber.
Anything that can move, will move, and one shock and you could be left with a +/-10º camber. I might use one on my fridge door hinge but not on the Oka steering.
This second idea from Specialty Products , which replaces the top bush (and is therefore easier to fit than shims), seems to hold more promise, but is only available in +/-1º or +/-1.5º versions, ie not fully adjustable, which is probably a good thing.
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- PeteFox
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I think these solutions look like a fairly agricultural way of fixing (disguising?) a problem.
If your wheels are leaning in and the kingpins aren't the problem, then your inner C's are bent/stretched or the tube is bent.
A more permanent though expensive solution is to replace the inner C's
There is an interesting article called Building A Dana 60 Front Axle That’ll Never Fai l
Pete Fox OKA266 MultiCab
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www.byles.net/www.oka4wd.com/forum/membe...oka-266?limitstart=0
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- Alister McBride
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Bingo Pete! These are the Dana 70 C-end (used on D80's of Paul K's), not Dana 60. Solid Axle Industries also sells a good version, either can be purchased through Paul K.
Dave I've seen bracing welded to housing's to stop further 'bending' of the tubes and the C-ends are a common problem.
See www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index2.html for a write-up of all D60 variations and possible faults including C-ends and Knuckles near the top of the page (this is page 2 of a 2 page analysis).
Cheers, Alister
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- dandjcr
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In fact the lean-in's barely visible or measurable and only shows up in tyre wear (it's been this way a long time and could be caused by toe-out although the alignment is set about parallel, I'll double check, should be 1 to 1.6mm toe-in).
Mine (obviously, with a diff seal leak) vs Pirate4x4 "C" ends. Not a lot of apparent difference so I don't think it warrants a major rebuild just yet.
Pirate4x4 is always my first port of call for any axle related issues but it's surprising that I couldn't find any reference there to Dana camber problems, even though they are very common in a Google search.
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- Alister McBride
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The OKA's C-ends are the D60 version which is shown above in both pics, they often just get slowly worse over many years of corrugations and overloading... The D70 C-ends are very noticeably bigger when you have them in your hand. There's basically metal wherever there isn't turning parts. The bottom arm is the load bearing part and they are probably about 1/4" thicker vertically and almost 1/2" thicker width wise, also they have more meat around the bearing...
Yes, pirate4x4 is a good resource but it doesn't have everything and sometimes suffers from "ignorseppopinion" but that's easily spotted with a "redneckometer"...
Cheers, Alister
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- dandjcr
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Strangely it wasn't the bent axle (or star picket) that first attracted my attention...
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- Outback Jack
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- Alister McBride
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- dandjcr
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But the reason for this post is to actually expose my technical shame and embarrassment.
I've overhauled the front axle (amongst many other things), including repair of worn spindles, but I've only had to fix brakes, bearings and oil seals on the rear axle and I did not realise that Dana 70 rear spindles were not removable!
So all these bolts are just to hold the calliper on? I naturally, but incorrectly, thought they also held the spindle on, like the front.
This pic from the manual should have given me a clue.
So I'd better not damage the bearing surfaces or it's a big job to repair.
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- Outback Jack
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Like you said, might pay to be vigilant. Maybe even replacing bearings/seals every few years to be on the safe side.
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- Alister McBride
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Nice prep work you're doing there David! Very tidy!
Cheers, Alister
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- dandjcr
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I've suffered bearing cup rotation on the front spindles previously (the symptom BTW was a high frequency buzzing vibration at certain speeds from the front hubs) so I also have some bearing locking compound (Loctite 641) which I shall apply next time I have the rear hubs off. So unless the spindles snap off we should be OK for a while.
Extricating washing up equipment from domestic to mechanical duties was not easy, but we were a long way from home and the brake pads had become soaked in diff oil so cleaning in detergent was deemed "justifiable use".
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- Alister McBride
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Did the dishes taste a bit greasy for a few days?? lol
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- Joseph Baz
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You don't need to machine the surface,just have to make sure that the receiving area us free of barbs or deep ridges,if the old seal working surface is too worn i usually fill it in with some DAVCON and file it smooth to form a surface similar to the original and then fit the Speedysleeve,if Loctite is used you need to make sure that you always carry a spare wheel hub seal as it's near impossible to remove the hub without damaging the seal,this is only in an emergency like if you got bogged in a creek and need to clean the bearings out otherways you always replace the seal.
Cheers,Joe
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- dandjcr
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There's lots more useful reading in the Loctite library here , and more useful info in our own Tech Docs library, (Workshop info, quick access here ).
Joe, I agree re seals, they are quite cheap and I use an internal gear puller to remove them, pulling against a bar across the rear of the hub. A smear of grease on them before insertion helps with removal too.
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- dandjcr
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David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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