Leaking fuel caps - fixed

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30 Oct 2012 16:11 #1 by dandjcr
dandjcr created the topic: Leaking fuel caps - fixed
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Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
Probably too trivial to worry about but maybe there are others who like me are annoyed by the poor sealing of the fuel tank caps. No way of measuring it but I reckon I would have been losing several litres per tankfull, especially if the vehicle was left parked on a slope just after filling up.

I finally got sick of it and pulled the cap apart and re-waved the wave washer to give more pressure on the seal rubber plus smoothed the top of the filler neck with an oilstone to remove some paint flakes.

Caps now seal almost perfectly to the extent that when the next fuel stop is a long way off, I can run the back wheel up on a block to overfill the tank and still get only a slight weep out of the cap. Previously it would drip in the ground.
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Tony

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September 20, 2010 at 7:17 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Garry & Chris
Member
Posts: 104
yep Tony has been annoying me I'll try that when I get back home
September 20, 2010 at 8:36 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539 I should point out that there are potential problems in deliberately overfilling the tank because if you don't immediately drive and switch the tanks frequently for the first few km, it might be possible for diesel to get into the gearboxes via the breather tubes as the fuel tank heats up and the fuel expands..
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Tony

picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379

September 20, 2010 at 9:43 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter_n_Margaret
Member
Posts: 198
So with all these OKA problems, I guess you will be glad to get back to one of your other rigs Tony?

Cheers,
Peter
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Cheers Peter, OKA196 Motorhome. www.oka4wd.com/xt196.htm



September 21, 2010 at 7:12 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Boofhead
Member
Posts: 3
Just wondering if you can buy locking fuel caps to replace the non locking or make up cover locking bracket

Kind regards from Boofhead
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July 18, 2012 at 8:09 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
The standard Oka fuel cap is from a Land Rover Defender from the nineties.
If you search eBay you should find a lot of UK sites selling them. I got my locking ones for about $30 a pair delivered. These will be aftermarket copies not genuine Rover ones.
check out this link for about 20 suppliers.
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Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



July 18, 2012 at 12:22 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Why does the breather tubes go to the gearbox??? Is there a better way?
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July 18, 2012 at 12:42 PM Flag Quote & Reply

David Hallandal
Member
Posts: 133
Yes. separate the breather lines. I have 3 breather lines, Diffs, Gearbox and Transfer Breathers and Fuel tank breathers. All separate all terminate next to each other in the engine bay with a Z14 Fuel filter on top of each.
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David Hallandal
OKA-131 Home Page
OKA Camper Trailer
XT and LT Service Manuals on CD For Sale
20mm Spring Hanger Upgrade Kits For Sale

July 18, 2012 at 1:51 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Hi David,
That sounds like the way to go.
Another mod to do.
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July 18, 2012 at 2:00 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Hal Harvey
Site Owner
Posts: 509
Boofhead (Geoff Peet from Green Head, WA), welcome aboard at last!

You may also want to check out this thread (click) for more information on fuel caps.
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Hal

July 18, 2012 at 3:50 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Nomad
Member
Posts: 30
Hey Boofhead, BEWARE! The part number listed in the previous threads may not fit the XT model. It would seem they fit most of the LT's thus far, but Moose came unstuck with them. Check the measurements VERY carefully before committing to purchase. Good luck mate.

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David & Christina Wight - Nomad Refrigeration - OKA267

July 18, 2012 at 5:18 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Yep, they don't fit mine, but UES have the caps too as well as a weld on ring that does fit, so i'll weld them on, which also gives a bit longer neck too.
July 18, 2012 at 5:32 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Hal Harvey
Site Owner
Posts: 509
How do you get on welding things to a fuel tank? I'm guessing this would require filling the tank with water?
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Hal

July 18, 2012 at 6:49 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Dave and Pauline Gray
Member
Posts: 83
Hal the fuel gases in an empty tank tank can be neutralised by running exhaust gases into it for half an hour or so I guess there would be a gauge of some sort to tell you when its safe but we didnt have them in my day so you just run plenty of exhaust gas in and if possible kept it running while welding.Best to be in a well ventalated area.{outside}
Cheers Dave
July 18, 2012 at 7:09 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
That works(sometimes) for petrol tanks, diesel is a different story.
When i lived on Thursday Island, i lived at a boat repair place, the boss used my petrol cruiser to pump exhaust gas into a boat tank, it still exploded, throwing him out of the boat and onto the floor.

I was supposed to weld a 50,000L diesel tank on a station a few years ago and read up on it, decided against it. Too many differing versions and multiple stories of all failing.

I'll get someone else to do it, maybe the same bloke that's welding my new bracket on for the P/S box.
July 18, 2012 at 8:07 PM Flag Quote & Reply

David Hallandal
Member
Posts: 133
what was the UES part Number for the fuel Cap and Receiving Ring
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David Hallandal
OKA-131 Home Page
OKA Camper Trailer
XT and LT Service Manuals on CD For Sale
20mm Spring Hanger Upgrade Kits For Sale

July 19, 2012 at 7:17 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
P/N - 602935
However I think you need to buy the ring to weld on to the tank as well.
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July 19, 2012 at 9:03 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
Might have misinterpreted what I saw but I thought Steve & Jenny's OKA had the ring connected to the existing neck (perhaps with the flange removed) with rubber hose and hose clamps
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Tony

picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379

July 19, 2012 at 7:41 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter 334
Member
Posts: 118
Before i made the new tanks for our oka i had welded the necks onto the old ones with a tig ( tungsten inert gas ) and i did not have to do anything to the tanks but just empty them and let stand for a week and all went well , no bang bang ! cheers peter
July 20, 2012 at 7:27 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
Guys
there are just too many reports of people being injured welding fuel tanks. The fact that somene has done it and got away with it only means that they were lucky, it does not mean that it is safe to do so. Russian roulette?
THERE IS ONLY ONE SAFE WAY TO DO THIS.
You need a source of steam. Many places such as dairy companies and other factories will have steam going to waste. The correct way to properly make a fuel tank safe for welding is to put the outlet of a steam pipe into the tank and leave it there for at least 72 hours. This will drive any remaining fuel that exists in cracks and slag inclusions etc. into the atmosphere.
Suprisingly little fuel is needed to create a dangerous explosion of it is in a confined space.
Don't do it. No matter how quick or bullet proof you think you are, you cannot duck the explosion, even it if happens in only one in 1000 times it is not worth the risk.

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Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



July 20, 2012 at 8:14 PM


Peter 334
Member
Posts: 118
I am not saying every one should go ahead and weld their tanks as i have done, i did what i did because i took precausions at the start and i have done this many times , i remove every thing off the tanks first and not leave as and capsul detergent mixed with water washed out then the week left standing maybe i should have said this first , also having the right gear first helps arc ,oxy , mig, should not be used at all as the throw sparks when welding and some people should not weld at all !
July 21, 2012 at 10:58 AM

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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13 Aug 2013 17:13 - 13 Aug 2013 17:21 #2 by Alister McBride
Alister McBride replied the topic: Leaking fuel caps - fixed
Hi all, i had the same problem but also the locks were buggered so i decided to buy new caps expecting the problem to be fixed... Nup, i backed out of the shed up an incline and fuel was peeing out everywhere (i had filed the filler neck flat also). (This was bach before i left in May, yes, this is how long i've been trialling different fixes!) I then thought i'd put extra layers of rubber behind the metal/rubber washer on one side and infront on the other to see if that helped put more pressure on the filler neck seal... Nup, it worked pretty well but not great and a funny result was that i used the wrong rubber (an old tractor inner tube) and over time it expanded which filled the cap with floppy saggy rubber. To add to this, because i had now put more pressure on the lock cover plate one of the screws stripped out the lock housing! So i looked again at what could be happening and realised that it wasn't the mating surfaces which were leaking fuel it was the cap itself. It's a bit complicated but see drawing below for fuel escape route. These caps are cheap and the parts inside weren't sealing properly so see drawing on the right for my fix (and so far it works perfectly!), i put 2x 1-1/4" x 1/8" O-Rings behind the main sealing washer around the main lock body. As i said, so far so good, i filled it very full and found NO trace of fuel coming out, not weaping at all, so i consider mine fixed and hopefully i don't need to go back there again!

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Last Edit: 13 Aug 2013 17:21 by Alister McBride.
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13 Aug 2013 20:42 #3 by Frank
Frank replied the topic: Leaking fuel caps - fixed
Alister,
Well done. Will have to have a look at mine and see in the same remedy works.
cheers,
Frank

Frank & Christine Thomas

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