Front Suspension

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30 Oct 2012 12:42 #1 by dandjcr
dandjcr created the topic: Front Suspension
Forum Home > OKA Maintenance > Front Suspension

frank
Member
Posts: 59
I have fitted the NT springs to 164 and in the process discovered that the drivers side clamp over the top of the springs is cracked.
I have got a NT clamp from Oka Parts.
The problem is that the NT clamp appears to have a 9 or 10 degree angle between the diff housing studs and the U bolt. The XT one is 0 degrees (a 3 degree wedge top and bottom create the required castor angle).
So with the bottom castor wedge in I am left with a 6 deg angle difference along the top of the spring pack. I can put two 3 degree wedges in the top and I reckon it would clamp up. (can you buy 6 degree wedges?)
Is this OK - or is this just asking for trouble?
The shock absorber lower mount angle is also changed - but I reckon this is minimal.
(I took some photos - but I can't get them onto my PC at present.)
The only other option I can see is to make up another clamp.
thanks

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Frank & Christine Thomas

September 24, 2012 at 8:17 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
You can still get XT Clamps I think. The NT has a different diff?
I am about to fit NT springs in a few weeks, however I brought brand new clamps off OKA Parts. I got them for both front and rear.
I am not sure where you can get the caster wedges and where you fit them
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September 24, 2012 at 9:29 PM Flag Quote & Reply

frank
Member
Posts: 59
I was around at Oka parts today. No XT clamps as far as we were able to tell, but Allan is on holidays so maybe there is somewhere.
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Frank & Christine Thomas

September 24, 2012 at 10:08 PM Flag Quote & Reply

joseph baz
Member
Posts: 331
Frank,how serious is the crack,can it be welded?
Cheers Joe

September 24, 2012 at 10:16 PM Flag Quote & Reply

frank
Member
Posts: 59
It looks like it started at the corner near the shock mount and has travelled across just above the horizontal section weld where the U bolt clamps onto. I discovered it when trying to torque the Ubolt up. I now have about 40mm of crack each side. a photo would save a thousand words!
I think it would be difficult to clean and effectively weld, not impossible, just difficult. i don't think I will be going away in the Oka on saturday (and I had two weeks of holidays planned :()
.
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Frank & Christine Thomas

September 24, 2012 at 10:33 PM Flag Quote & Reply

joseph baz
Member
Posts: 331
give me a call in the morning and will try to organize some time to look at it,I think from memory i may have a second hand bracket or we'll try to sort something out 0419322443
Cheers,Joe
September 24, 2012 at 10:49 PM Flag Quote & Reply

frank
Member
Posts: 59
Brainwave overnight is to use the NT bracket and weld in some 6 or 10mm plate steel to form the required castor wedge. It will be difficult to access the internal join to weld it, so if anyone has got some good ideas - let me know. Hopefully Joe will take a look today too.
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Frank & Christine Thomas

September 25, 2012 at 11:27 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter & Sandra James Oka 374
Member
Posts: 412
Toyota's used to do that too, we always welded them successfully and then braced the shock mount to stop it happening again. Just grind a groove along the crack and then weld it up, usually just a small triangular brace is enough to stop the shock mount flexing.
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Oka 374 LT Van

September 26, 2012 at 4:45 AM Flag Quote & Reply

outyonda.com
Member
Posts: 58
Frank West coast suspension or Weastralia springs may have clamps or could make them. + wedges. i would weld out in the never never to get home, most cracks start at weld! cheers Brett
September 26, 2012 at 8:11 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Is it only the XT that needs the wedges?? In the service and spare parts manual, I couldnt see it for the LT. However I can for the XT.
If this is the case and you upgrade to NT springs, then do you need the wedges?


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September 26, 2012 at 9:02 AM Flag Quote & Reply

frank
Member
Posts: 59
164 is drivable again, thanks to Joe for the loan of an LT spring clamp (its a lot better design than the XT clamp).
I still have a clunk somewhere in the suspension when turning sharp right and left. It could be the passenger side spring as the hole in the diff bracket was a bit elongated . I have also noticed that the front spring hanger has about 1mm of side clearance between the spring eye and side load washer. So either the 1" pin is slightly too long or I should put in thicker side washers than what was provided. I have retorqued the u bolts twice so far, will do it a couple of more times before I head off. If anyone has any idea of what else may make a suspension clunk let me know. I'm assuming its the front, will replace the rear springs and put in 1" pins when I get back.
The front really does stick up now with clearance between the springs and rubbers. I have also noticed that the new shockies have slightly less extension (about 10mmm) than the old. Same monroe part number!
So I'm off for two weeks on Saturday, Church camp at Perkins Beach for a week then wander off to where I came from (Ravensthorpe-Hopetoun) to do some fishing, shooting, poking around mines, install Dads headstone and whatever else Mum has lined up for me.
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Frank & Christine Thomas

September 27, 2012 at 5:12 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
I was told the clunking is the springs moving side to side between the hangers because of the gap between the spring and the hangers on either side. Fixed by inserting spacers of some kind
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Tony

picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379

September 27, 2012 at 5:53 PM Flag Quote & Reply

frank
Member
Posts: 59
I have spacers in the hangers, but the passenger side still has a small gap. The hangers were a little worn but I didnt think it would be enought to worry about.
I'm thinking about welding the hole up in the diff mount on the axle and redrilling it and see if this makes the clunk go away.
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Frank & Christine Thomas

September 27, 2012 at 6:17 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Frank, worn tie rod ends can also cause a clunk, or the tapered holes in the steering arms can wear or go oval so that the rod ends can move, even if done up tight.
Some shims in the holes can help so the rod ends don't bottom out before becoming tight.
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David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

September 27, 2012 at 10:34 PM

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
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