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07 Feb 2017 07:50 #1 by packhorse
packhorse created the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Hello, purchased old #67 and finally made it from the Goldfields to short term residence in the Perth Hills where it will swallow more money than intended before taking me away to the bush of no fixed abode for an unknown period.
Picked the old girl up and headed for Perth at 80 max, any faster and I couldn't get my toe under the accelerator to unstick it, it had it's moments.
Managed to free that up without removing and replacing, with my mentor Dave Gray.
No park lights all round (still none) forced me into the Pub at Carrabin for the night, good move as the beer was very cold and people friendly.
Looking to replace 6 tyres on splits, 255/100 R16 Mitchies on at the moment but still looking at options, maybe back to originals.
Oil pressure gauge out of action, sender unit say's Taiwan and may not match the VDO gauge, it does the job for the warning light but jumps to 600 on powering up and stays there.
The odometer in the speedo has lost the plastic drive cog and looks like it should be replaceable.
Several other bugs that come with age including cancer but will deal with all that after a good shakedown.
I would greatly appreciate any advice if anyone has conquered my tribulations.
Have been looking through this site and it looks like a great reference point, I hope to be able to contribute as my knowledge and travels expand.

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07 Feb 2017 08:32 #2 by Dean and Kaye Howells
Dean and Kaye Howells replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Welcome Packhorse and you could do a lot worse than having Dave as your 'mentor'.

Can't really comment on the lack of lighting except in a general manner as our LT is wired a bit differently than your XT, but shouldn't (hopefully) be a big problem to solve. A warm and friendly pub with cold beer is just the price you have to pay at times. :)

Wheels and tyres are the perennial Oka conundrum, at the end of the day it all comes down to what sort of driving you intend to do and how deep your pockets are. The Michelin 255/100's are a very good tyre but are increasingly difficult to obtain and are usually very expensive. When I replaced mine several years ago I could buy a good new tubeless tyre AND rim cheaper than a single 255/100. My recommendation would be to stay clear of these tyres. The cheapest option would be to retain the original split rims and put a set of original size 8.25R16 tyres on them. Cheap, good gearing but pretty uninspiring ride with not much bagging available if you need to let them down in sand. Again it all depends on where you want to go and what you want to do.

Correct oil pressure sender is not a big deal, ebay, Dean at Oka parts or Paul Nott over here at East Coast Oka who I know has them as I just ordered one. :)

The crumbled plastic speedo cog is a common problem and cheap to get fixed. I've just had mine done and speedo recalibrated for less than $150. If you've got the optional tripmeter speedo definitely worth fixing. One of Daves old trucking contacts should hopefully be able to sort this for you.

Again, welcome to the forum.

Deano & Kaye :)
The following user(s) said Thank You: Dave and Pauline Gray

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07 Feb 2017 08:35 #3 by Outback Jack
Outback Jack replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Welcome aboard.

Did you buy this from Robin Wade??

Or was it advertised elsewhere.

You have some good talent in WA, so you shouldn't have any problems.

Perhaps speak to Dean, he has all the parts you will need etc.

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07 Feb 2017 08:39 #4 by 210greg
210greg replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Welcome Packhorse now the fun starts you will enjoy every minute. Just on your speedo issue I sent my original speedo away to VDO for repair cost was about $200 failed after a couple years so just sourced new ones for about same money and came with trip meter which was always a bug with old ones much happier now. Also you might check the figures with new turbos fitted under Morts topic. Or are thinking of joining the Dark side.
Greg

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07 Feb 2017 10:30 #5 by Dave and Pauline Gray
Dave and Pauline Gray replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
I don't think I have ever been called a mentor before but as Packhorse and I have worked together on different projects in the oil/gas exploration industry at times I do know he is a capable plant operator plus likes laying under things getting his hands grubby and one thing I told him at the start of his quest to own an Oka they are a labour intensive unit so he will feel at home laying underneath lol.

Cheers Dave
The following user(s) said Thank You: Stephen Knowles

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07 Feb 2017 19:33 #6 by Aussie Iron
Aussie Iron replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Congratulations on your purchase and any way it's always cooler laying under the vehicle than in the sun.

Dan.

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08 Feb 2017 05:56 #7 by packhorse
packhorse replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Thank you for the welcome, I'm in for the long haul so best the speedo gets fixed to keep a record.
#67 was bought privately but I was fortunate enough to meet Robin and he sorted some things out ( I would like to know what that Gentleman has forgotten in the knowledge department)
I'm thinking the 825x16" for rubber as a trip down the Canning is the only sand it will be getting unless my metal detector gets lucky in those conditions. Now which brand and configuration.
The Perkins looks good so there will be no cross-dressing going on in the engine bay.
A solar system is a must and all charging and battery control will get glared at before going out.
I appreciate the input and look forward to gleaning whatever is in this forum, I cant get this experience overnight.

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08 Feb 2017 06:18 #8 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,

packhorse wrote: I was fortunate enough to meet Robin and he sorted some things out ( I would like to know what that Gentleman has forgotten in the knowledge department).


Hi Packhorse, yes, Robin just keeps on keeping on. He did much the same for us in 2003 when we were also Oka novices and is one of nature's gentlemen.

Re the oil pressure gauge, check the wire from the sender, it is prone to breaking/bad connection which causes the needle problem (which then jams when rammed against the end stop).

Agree re mentoring by Dave, he's helped me a lot with real world experience on things mechanical/diesel (and we've done a couple of sandy trips with D&P). My expertise is more electronical, plus getting my fingers/tools etc jammed between immovable objects.

If you can't find what you are looking for in the forums, let me know, I have ways...

David

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Dave and Pauline Gray

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08 Feb 2017 06:51 #9 by packhorse
packhorse replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Thanks David, I made another connection to get the small (right angled) oil sender to work but this just allows the light to work, the gauge still jumps to 600 on ignition, the Covs guy wants to sell me the both. I dont have any visible wiring to connect to the bigger oil sender (temp?) above the pressure sender so will keep scratching my chin. I'm happy to replace the gauge but off the shelf they seem to go to 500 so maybe a matching sender or just read the gauge and say, well, thats my new operating setting. Its matching the plugs under the dash for the oil and speedo that will keep me looking, whilst this to you is second nature, to me its harder to get the 12" shifter into those tight spots under the dash.

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08 Feb 2017 14:31 - 08 Feb 2017 14:38 #10 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Packhorse, no wire from the sender is certainly suspicious. There are 2 wires in a loom, see pic, one from the pressure switch and one (yellow in our case) from the pressure gauge sender (item 4).



If you can find and repair the missing wire from its loom junction with the switch sender wire you should be OK. The terminal on the sender may be broken off, but you may still be able to clip a wire on it.

If you can't find the missing wire, your best option is to connect a separate wire from the back of the pressure gauge (may be marked with a "G") to the sender and try that. It's not easy tracing electrical circuits though a maze of wiring harnesses so I often just make up a separate connection.

If you still have problems, with the ignition on, short the sender connection to ground (or sender body). The gauge reading should fall from 600 to near zero. If so the sender or its connection is faulty, if not suspect the wiring some more. The gauge is the least likely culprit, much more likely to be wiring or sender unit.

In any event, if the pressure switch and lamp is working (and goes off when the engine is running) it means you've got some oil pressure, otherwise you wouldn't have got home.

David

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
Attachments:
Last Edit: 08 Feb 2017 14:38 by dandjcr.

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09 Feb 2017 04:24 #11 by Peter and Sandra OKA 374
Peter and Sandra OKA 374 replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
The senders are standard VDO off the shelf parts, you can work out part numbers from the online catalogue and then order online or from any parts place.

OKA 374 LT Van, converted to camper/motorhome,
400ah Lithiums, 1100w solar, diesel cooking heating and HWS,
Cummins 6BT, Allison 6 speed auto, Nissan transfer.

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09 Feb 2017 06:43 #12 by packhorse
packhorse replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Flying into the Gt Victoria Desert for fortnight of no coms but will be getting on top of that, thank you for the info, this is great.

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09 Feb 2017 09:44 #13 by John and Bronwyn
John and Bronwyn replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Hi Packhorse, welcome to the Oka family!

I have an idea of what you are facing, when I got 191 I think the only warning lights / gauges working properly were the oil pressure light and handbrake light (the last mandatory for a roadworthy).
I eventually sorted it all out but it took a while. I even had to replace the alternator regulator unit, damaged because someone bypassed the alternator lamp.

I have found the details of Oka "electrics" a bit sketchy, the schematic in the manual is mostly right (but not 100%) and although some wire colours are shown, others aren't. But finding the wire on one end as David suggests is a good start especially if you know more-or-less where the other end should be.

David, I don't think I have your diagram in my manual, it might help clear up a mystery in my vehicle.

dandjcr wrote:



This shows what looks like the combined temperature sender & switch on the RHS (with a cutoff arrow), with another device just behind. 191 has a sensor or switch fitted beside the thermostat housing, presumably this device, but it's not connected to anything. The diagram suggests it probably should be or once was, does anyone know what it is?

Incidentally, re the temperature gauge & sender, the gauge had been replaced with a mechanical gauge with the bulb in the thermostat top housing - not ideal, and created some odd temperature readings at times. I decided to restore the electric gauge and found the original sender was OK. But "new gauge no work". Turned out the plug for the gauge had 2 wires crossed, probably from the factory, and probably why the original gauge was replaced in the first place!

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10 Feb 2017 06:06 #14 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
John/Bronwyn, the unnumbered item you referred to is possibly the Injector Pump Solenoid connection, since I can't find that anywhere else. But I also have an unidentified sensor in the side of the engine block, behind the injector pump.

I find Oka electrics to be a real challenge since the manuals rarely reflect the actual wiring of our Oka, they are incomplete and all Oka’s are different configurations.

Also there are no consistent wiring colours so tracing connections is a time consuming nightmare. And the harnesses are getting old and starting to fail and may well have been changed/augmented, like mine.

But that's what we are here for, to sort out annoying little conundrums.

David

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.

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10 Feb 2017 16:38 - 10 Feb 2017 22:31 #15 by Dean and Kaye Howells
Dean and Kaye Howells replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,

packhorse wrote:
..... I'm thinking the 825x16" for rubber as a trip down the Canning is the only sand it will be getting unless my metal detector gets lucky in those conditions. Now which brand and configuration.
..............


Bloody awful choice of tyre for the Canning (IMO), what are your 255/100 casings like ? A totally bald 255/100 will be a much better tyre for the Canning than a brand new 8.25R16 as it can be let down and bagged out to give heaps better contact area than the poor old 8.25R16. The strain on the vehicles drive train (and driver) will be greatly reduced if your old 255/100 tyres aren't too knackered. The thing to watch is that the ribbing inside the tyres can rub through thin tubes like the 'normal' Korean/Chinese/Indian crap tubes that are common now. Changing the tubes to decent Michelins or tractor tubes can save a whole lot of grief when running at reduced pressures.

Without even looking at your 255/100's it may be that your tyres are worn down to the tread separators (as opposed to the wear marks) which can give the impression of a worn out tyre. Removing/re grooving the tread separators out will give you an extra 5mm or so of useful tread depth and is well worth the effort in extending the life of your 255/100's.

Not a very good picture but the blue arrows point to the actual tread separators/reinforcing that is needed when the tyre is new but can be removed when the tyre wears and the green arrow actually points to the wear mark.

i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg339/DeanoH...elin_zps8b2b535e.jpg

(I hope this picture link works as I find it can be a bit difficult at times, if not I'm sure David will come to the rescue. :))

Deano :)

Yes, the link works. D
Last Edit: 10 Feb 2017 22:31 by dandjcr.

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11 Feb 2017 13:32 #16 by John and Bronwyn
John and Bronwyn replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,

dandjcr wrote: John/Bronwyn, the unnumbered item you referred to is possibly the Injector Pump Solenoid connection, since I can't find that anywhere else. But I also have an unidentified sensor in the side of the engine block, behind the injector pump.

I find Oka electrics to be a real challenge since the manuals rarely reflect the actual wiring of our Oka, they are incomplete and all Oka’s are different configurations.

Also there are no consistent wiring colours so tracing connections is a time consuming nightmare. And the harnesses are getting old and starting to fail and may well have been changed/augmented, like mine.

But that's what we are here for, to sort out annoying little conundrums.

David


Thanks David, much appreciated. Yes, I think the un-numbered item is the IP cutoff solenoid. So the mystery sensor remains a mystery. Never mind.
I have also found the manual helpful for electrics but definitely not 100% reliable or complete, and add 20-odd years of "improvements" by previous owners and it can be like trying to unscramble an omelette. Many bits have been removed or heavily modified. All part of the challange....

Cheers, John

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05 Apr 2017 20:25 #17 by packhorse
packhorse replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Bit of an update for #67
Working with Dave we replaced all the wheel bearings and seals for peace of mind. The gearbox's came out while we had access from above and replaced the clutch plate and thrust bearing, they appeared new but something untoward occurred as the clutch used to grab, which turned out to be cracking in the plate, the selector fork was twisted out of shape and almost broken right through so straightened that and gusseted it enough to make a cocky proud, the give away was the amount of spacers on the the cable adjustment to make up for the fork arm damage???!!!
Welded out the slop in the transfer box selector plate and re-drilled to a tighter fit. Just waiting on a sparky to sort out the wiring mess (whats with the wiring colour code?) At some point the old dipswitch behind the seat to separate the batteries has buggered up so all the leads were joined as one. Sorted the lighting problem out while waiting for the Sparky, the main feed on the steering column switch had departed so gave it a quick solder and away we go. Modified the steering column to allow for my spider legs.
I was wondering if anyone has a contact for Rowena Paterson as she may have been the last ethical owner of #67 and I would like to get a picture of it's history. (preferably with Rowena's consent)
All things being equal I should be in the bush shooting Easter Bunnies in a week or so (joking, for those who hate that sort of thing, anyhow, they taste too chocolaty this time of year)
Finished up getting a speedo from the Speedhut in the U.S., it was a great deal till I remembered the exchange rate.
Looking to put a Reece type hitch at the front to set up the winch on an insert to use front or back as I don't want to get dragged further into my first mistake.
At a later stage the air intake may have to be modified to get the seat back for them same bloody spider legs.
Having been under and over it I'm still happy, especially while under it as I don't lose anywhere near the amount of skin and blood I would under the G.U. or HZJ75

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06 Apr 2017 07:21 #18 by outyonda
outyonda replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Rowena is on the forum here
She works on the mines

When#67 was Rowene,s it was in good nick
I looked & drove it in Nordsman a year back, A sad OKA
Bits hanging off, hyd res banging on front diff
Clutch issues t/c output slop, u/j,s
i give him a list & he got A few bits from OKA parts

OKAs 091, 093, 094, 113, 346x6 & 405

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06 Apr 2017 14:15 #19 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: New Member Packhorse,
Packhorse, I've sent you a PM with Rowena's last known contact details.

David

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.

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