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07 Sep 2017 21:01 #21 by T-Rex 146
T-Rex 146 replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
We purchased ours from Dean Robinson at Oka Australia in Perth W.A.
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07 Mar 2018 17:40 #22 by Holmz
Holmz replied the topic: New Member - Holmz

T-Rex 146 wrote: We purchased ours from Dean Robinson at Oka Australia in Perth W.A.


Well I met the fellow today (Dean), and I saw a lot of OKA porn in the shop (if that is The proper youngster term?).
The tanks, battery racks, and internal fit out, extended dual cab, and I think a bit of an extended chassis... all seems pretty schmicko.
And then engines, trans, and diffs for the people that like beauty which is below skin deep.

My major issues have been slotting it into 4th, and the dreadful shake of the front end at ~70kph.
Went to tyre power and got the RH front swapped the RH rear, and both fronts balanced.
Then I set a new top speed today, hitting 90 without my hands looking like a paint shaker.
So looking forward to the drive back home, knowing that 90 is a lot better than 70 for the bitumen.

Went to BCF and got a heap of Jerry cans, etc... so worst case is I should be able to survive till the weather cools down.
125 Ltrs H2O, 80 diesel, 100 litre ice chest, a new swag mattress, and a couple of chairs.

Speed is not great, but it at least cracks 90, so should be able to not be too much in the way of others.

It has been pretty interesting driving around Perth/Freo. It is bigger and slower than anything else I have been in recently, but good enough other than not being able to hear the GPS.

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08 Mar 2018 03:41 - 08 Mar 2018 03:46 #23 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: New Member - Holmz

Holmz wrote:
My major issues have been slotting it into 4th, and the dreadful shake of the front end at ~70kph.
Went to tyre power and got the RH front swapped the RH rear, and both fronts balanced.

Speed is not great, but it at least cracks 90, so should be able to not be too much in the way of others.

It has been pretty interesting driving around Perth/Freo. It is bigger and slower than anything else I have been in recently, but good enough other than not being able to hear the GPS.


Holmz, when you're settled in, check the front king pin bushes/springs on the knuckles, which allow the wheels to swivel, and rod ends. If things are worn/weak, front end shake/"death wobble" can be a real pain, which balancing doesn't always fix.

Gear selection problems are often shaft adjustment issues, check the pinch bolt on the gearbox shaft for tightness, and rod ends for wear.

When you're set up and traveling off road (which is when Okas are happiest and at home) 90kph will seem like an unlikely dream. Top speed is rarely an issue for us, except when chased by road trains.

The basic Oka has very little sound proofing (and what it has can fall off or become useless) so adding some sound deadening thickness to all exposed metal surfaces in the cabin area and around the engine can make them surprisingly quiet.

There's plenty of posts on all these subjects on the forum so ask away.

David

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
Last Edit: 08 Mar 2018 03:46 by dandjcr.

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08 Mar 2018 06:34 #24 by fran philipson
fran philipson replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
Holmz, our OKA had the standard interior and was very noisy off road. We solved this by installing Dynamat to all the flat surfaces (including inside the doors ) and then installing acoustic foam covered with vinyl on top of the Dynamat. Made a huge difference to cab noise and temperature. Both Dynamat and acoustic foam can be bought on e-bay an are peel and stick.
Cheers
George

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08 Mar 2018 06:52 - 08 Mar 2018 06:54 #25 by outyonda
outyonda replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
Death wobbel
check King pins & tie rod ends,& buckeled rims .
tyre ware is caused by worn mechanicals & alignment

if you don't find the cause, I will haunt you !!

OKAs 091, 093, 094, 113, 346x6 & 405
Last Edit: 08 Mar 2018 06:54 by outyonda.

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08 Mar 2018 09:17 #26 by Dean and Kaye Howells
Dean and Kaye Howells replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
90 k's flat out is a bit on the slow side depending on tyres fitted and diff ratios. From memory the standard Oka diff ratio is 4.88 although some mine spec vehicles were fitted with lower ratio diffs. What tyre/rim combo are you running ? There may be a diff ratio tag affixed to one of the diff cover bolts which will tell you the diff ratio.

Another very common cause of poor top speed is that you may not be getting full stroke on the throttle. With the engine cover up and engine off and foot flat to the floor the injector pump linkage should be at full stroke and resting on its stop. If it's not it may just need a simple bend upwards of the accelerator pedal whose travel may be restricted by being slowly bent down over the years or a floor mat restricting its travel. Both are very common causes of poor top speed in the Oka. Another common problem is wear in the linkage pin connector where the accelerator cable connects to the injector pump arm which can also limit travel.

Deano :)

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09 Mar 2018 08:05 - 09 Mar 2018 08:06 #27 by Holmz
Holmz replied the topic: New Member - Holmz

dandjcr wrote:
Holmz, when you're settled in, check the front king pin bushes/springs on the knuckles, which allow the wheels to swivel, and rod ends. If things are worn/weak, front end shake/"death wobble" can be a real pain, which balancing doesn't always fix.

Gear selection problems are often shaft adjustment issues, check the pinch bolt on the gearbox shaft for tightness, and rod ends for wear.

When you're set up and traveling off road (which is when Okas are happiest and at home) 90kph will seem like an unlikely dream. Top speed is rarely an issue for us, except when chased by road trains.

The basic Oka has very little sound proofing (and what it has can fall off or become useless) so adding some sound deadening thickness to all exposed metal surfaces in the cabin area and around the engine can make them surprisingly quiet.

There's plenty of posts on all these subjects on the forum so ask away.

David


A balance resulted in a new top speed was set (90 in a 90 zone). And it should go higher as I was a short stretch.

I'll have a look at the linkage next. TA


fran philipson wrote: Holmz, our OKA had the standard interior and was very noisy off road. We solved this by installing Dynamat to all the flat surfaces (including inside the doors ) and then installing acoustic foam covered with vinyl on top of the Dynamat. Made a huge difference to cab noise and temperature. Both Dynamat and acoustic foam can be bought on e-bay an are peel and stick.
Cheers
George


Thanks George.
I have used dynamat in the past, and did find a bunch of information in melamine foam, and decoupling layers. It makes sense.
I'll need to get stuck into it.
In mean time I got some ear plugs ;)

Dean and Kaye Howells wrote: 90 k's flat out is a bit on the slow side depending on tyres fitted and diff ratios. From memory the standard Oka diff ratio is 4.88 although some mine spec vehicles were fitted with lower ratio diffs. What tyre/rim combo are you running ? There may be a diff ratio tag affixed to one of the diff cover bolts which will tell you the diff ratio.

Another very common cause of poor top speed is that you may not be getting full stroke on the throttle. With the engine cover up and engine off and foot flat to the floor the injector pump linkage should be at full stroke and resting on its stop. If it's not it may just need a simple bend upwards of the accelerator pedal whose travel may be restricted by being slowly bent down over the years or a floor mat restricting its travel. Both are very common causes of poor top speed in the Oka. Another common problem is wear in the linkage pin connector where the accelerator cable connects to the injector pump arm which can also limit travel.

Deano :)


Tyres are 33" in diameter (255 light truck jobs)
Thanks- I'll look at the linkage.

And 90 more acceptable than 70 on the bitumen.
(It feels like it should crack 100 kph on the flat)
Last Edit: 09 Mar 2018 08:06 by Holmz.

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10 Mar 2018 13:17 #28 by T-Rex 146
T-Rex 146 replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
Brackets available from Dean Robinson, if you haven't already got them
The following user(s) said Thank You: Holmz

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10 Mar 2018 13:25 - 10 Mar 2018 13:25 #29 by Holmz
Holmz replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
I fînally cottoned onto 4th...
When I go up to neutral from third, and then over to the right, and then up into fourth gear - at the very end it has a little extra throw I head back the the left hand path of a Y .
Maybe it is just mine, but no grinds lately.
Last Edit: 10 Mar 2018 13:25 by Holmz.

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11 Mar 2018 08:10 - 11 Mar 2018 08:16 #30 by Dean and Kaye Howells
Dean and Kaye Howells replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
Hi Holmz, if your tyres are 255/100 R16's, the modern equivelent of 9.00R16's then approx. 2150/2200 rpm in 5th gear should give you 100 kmh. If not then you have either lower ratio diffs or your speedo or tacho calibration may be out. Using a gps as speed reference is a good way to get definitive results. Both the speedo and tacho have fine tuning adjustments on the rear.

Deano :)
Last Edit: 11 Mar 2018 08:16 by Dean and Kaye Howells.

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11 Mar 2018 14:42 #31 by Holmz
Holmz replied the topic: New Member - Holmz

Dean and Kaye Howells wrote: Hi Holmz, if your tyres are 255/100 R16's, the modern equivelent of 9.00R16's then approx. 2150/2200 rpm in 5th gear should give you 100 kmh. If not then you have either lower ratio diffs or your speedo or tacho calibration may be out. Using a gps as speed reference is a good way to get definitive results. Both the speedo and tacho have fine tuning adjustments on the rear.

Deano :)


Thanks Deano.

Maybe my ratios are different?
The RPM at 100kph is something like 2300+ (I think).
Mostly sat at ~ 90 on the GPS and the speedo was about 3 kph optimistic (higher).

On the grades to Albany the water temp was hitting 100C, I stopped in Williams at the "rustic rainbow cafe" for a latte and nature break, and it was down to 80C with the engine running. We usually stop there for a cuppa, and I called the Mrs from Albany, and to my lack of surprise she was having a coffee there a couple or hours after my stop.

Had about 20 kms behind a truck load of lambs headed to the yards where it was at 90C at 100 kph, otherwise it was obviously not aerodynamically smooth.

I'll see about a tachometer adjustment... however it feels like it needs an induction improvement, and a radiator flush. I'll try for the radiator tomorrow or Tuesday. No too fussed with 90kph, as it is now smoother with the balance.

Got through 3 and a bit of the CDs of Neil Gelman's audiobook "Norse Mythology". The usual suspects in there with a woman called Hel running hell, and Odin self sacrificing himself on a tree for 9 days with a spear shoved into his side for added effect. Thor and Loki also making the usual appearances.

So a decent result having made stop #1.

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11 Mar 2018 20:58 #32 by Ewart and Vivian Halford
Ewart and Vivian Halford replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
Hi holmz, do you have headphones to listen to the audio book? I emagine it is a bit noisy in the cab.
I think you have 8.50.16 tyres wich are smaller than 900s.

Cheers

Ewart oka 365
0428911147

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11 Mar 2018 22:06 #33 by Holmz
Holmz replied the topic: New Member - Holmz

Ewart and Vivian Halford wrote: Hi holmz, do you have headphones to listen to the audio book? I emagine it is a bit noisy in the cab.
I think you have 8.50.16 tyres wich are smaller than 900s.

Cheers


Thanks Ewart,
Once it is rolling along the engine seems less noisy than at idle, however the the AC fan, and wind noise is noteable.
I just turned the radio up pretty high and the audiobook was fine. (GPS is hard to hear even with the radio off)

I guess the tyre size kind of begs the question of what is a good OD for tyres with the standard Perkins? (33" 35" ??)
I am looking at tyres and rims, and am still pondering 16 versus 17", and whether semi-off road, or go with 19.5 road tyres,
And recall being told that the 17" are more common than 16", and that the 19.5 with truck tyres are better for bitumen... so leaning to 17" with a less aggressive tread as a compromise.

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12 Mar 2018 05:08 #34 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: New Member - Holmz

Holmz wrote: I fînally cottoned onto 4th...
When I go up to neutral from third, and then over to the right, and then up into fourth gear - at the very end it has a little extra throw I head back the the left hand path of a Y .
Maybe it is just mine, but no grinds lately.


Holmz, if you have difficulty selecting 4th gear, its synchro may be weak (mine has been for 13 years).

The answer when going up from 3rd (apart from a gearbox teardown) is to touch the gear lever into 5th (not all the way) and then straight up into 4th.

That speeds up the cogs simulating the synchro function and makes for a grind-free gear change.

And then double-declutch, blipping the throttle in neutral on the way down, to get the 4th gear cogs up to speed.

In the olden, pre-synchro days that was the only way to change gear.

The other suggestion is to check the gear selection lever to the gearbox for wear or adjustment (pinch bolt must be very tight).

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.

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12 Mar 2018 20:25 #35 by Holmz
Holmz replied the topic: New Member - Holmz
Thanks David/Janet.

I was doing all the tricks...
rev 3rd to 2500
Push it to neutral, and the the clutch out, letting revs hit ~1600, putting it in and shifting into 4th.

It was later when I found that there was a little notch back at te top of the throw into forth where it dog legs back towards 22nd gear... about 8-10 mm from the end.
With ^this trick^ it is always a smooth shift.

Basically posted it in case someone else in the future has a similar grinding.

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