What did you do over Easter? I worked on my Oka

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frank
Member
Posts: 59
Easter long weekend and I have spent the last few days trying to do some stuff on the Oka
- changed the oil & filter, not sure when it was last done. Now the oil sender leaks oil! (Item 6, section 4, page 56 of the XT parts manual - part # DET2848062). Is this anything special? or can I put in any old sender unit. Anyone have a generic part number for this or know what the low pressure psi setting is? Found the pressure switch specifications here ( www.michelecaroli.com/catalogue.pdf ).
- removed an a/c compressor (used as an on board air compressor) that was mounted to the chassis LHS yet driven from an additional pulley directly behind the fan. I didn't like the idea of driving a chassis mounted item directly from a flexibly mounted engine, I can't imagine it has done the fan bearings any good. The mount for this has rubbed a nice gouge in the high pressure hydraulic hose for the power steering (i think that's what it is). I assume I just take this hose off and get some place to copy it, ? Its also rubbed gouges in the heater hose.
-replaced the horn, removed old horn plus two air horns and pump. New horn needs a negative connection. So does the new LED side indicators I am trying to fit, body is so rusty that I will probably run a separate negative all the way to the battery. Just gluing aluminium plates over the rust at present, till I have the time to strip the body completely.
-removing various unfused power connections that are running directly to the starting battery. Plus lots of other electrical tidy ups are needed (ie. correct guage wire to trailer brakes connection).
-those Oka toggle switches aren't cheap!
-still working on the front uni joint, sandpapered the clips thinner, but the uni joint is still tight to move by hand. I guess you dont want any side to side play, but how tight is too tight?
I do like the way the dash comes apart. I don't like the rust on every seam, and every unpainted part.


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Frank & Christine Thomas

April 10, 2012 at 11:23 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Frank, re the oil pressure switch (rather than the larger gauge sender unit), it looks like any pressure switch that fits should work.
Most engines will have the same minimum oil pressure of around 10 psi (70 kpa). So a switch with the same thread from SuperCheap or similar should be OK.
Remove it and make sure the tee piece hasn't split first.
If it was the gauge sender unit, that would be a different story since it would need to be matched to the requirements of the gauge.
That's a useful catalogue you found but watch their specs. For sender unit 2846071 it says 0-80 psi but 80 psi is 550 kpa, not 55.
Re compressors, I have an a/c compressor running from my engine (and it's invaluable) but it's mounted on the LHS engine mount rather than the chassis which avoids the problem you've got.
Re UJ's, if you can move it by hand and it doesn't bind anywhere, then it's probably not too tight. Grease it well and it should run in after a while.
Your other Oka experiences sound fairly familiar.
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David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

April 11, 2012 at 8:16 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Frank, re the hydraulic hoses, on your Oka the high pressure hydraulic pipes (they are about 1 inch thick and have metal ferules on each end) power the brakes as well as the steering so any sign of excessive wear or leaking should be a concern. But ENZED or similar companies should stock or make them up. It will be a messy job to replace them though. See Section 8 (Steering) of the XT Parts Manual.
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David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

April 11, 2012 at 8:32 AM Flag Quote & Reply

frank
Member
Posts: 59
David,
I also drained about 1/2 litre of automatic transmission fluid from the air tank. Wondering about how much has been transferred into the tyre tubes. Have you ever checked yours, or are you running alloy rims and tubeless tyres?
I plan to mount an electric compressor instead - I know it will be slower. But at least I know I wont be transferring any oil into the tubes.

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Frank & Christine Thomas

April 11, 2012 at 10:11 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Frank, I have normal steel wheels and tubeless tyres and yes, I normally get a bit of foamy oil when draining the air tank.
I've never noticed any oil in the tyres, airbags or other air tools in 6 years. If the output from the tank is much higher than the drain (which is normal), little fluid should appear in the air. If you are concerned, an oil/fluid trap/drier could be fitted on the outlet from the compressor. I tried one once but it developed a fluid lock and blew a hole in the air line from the compressor.
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David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

April 11, 2012 at 10:33 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter & Sandra James Oka 374
Member
Posts: 412
I had a homemade aircon compressor for years on a troopy and it always blew the oil out and into the air tank and despite the outlet being over 300mm higher than the inlet it still worked its way down the hose and into whatever you were inflating. I ended up putting a filter/dryer on it which stopped the problem.
Initially we used ATF in the compressor which being light went everywhere, then changed to 90 grade and that was much better. The ones available commercially (Endless Air etc) don't have oil in them and instead have grease nipples and sealed bearings.
For the last few years we ran them dry and never had any problems either, if one did bugger up just get another from the wreckers.
You MUST always fit a relief valve to the system/tank as they will go to around 600psi and the results when a tank lets go aren't pretty.
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Oka 374 LT Van

April 11, 2012 at 12:35 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Peter, fully agree, I have a pressure switch, relief valve (pop off valve) and gauge all on the same manifold direct from the compressor.
My comment about rupturing air lines was meant as a note of caution.
AIr lines normally rupture at around 300 psi which you would think would be before the tank ruptures.
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David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

April 11, 2012 at 1:13 PM