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Transfer case rear output seal

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30 Jul 2016 13:53 #1 by Tony Lee
Tony Lee created the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
One of those times when I should have left well enough alone.

The cover on the transmission brake started rattling around (noticed the speedo fluctuating) as 3 out of the 4 welded nuts broke away on the back flange. Should have put a few tek screws in and left it alone, but I figured I may as well pull it to bits and see how much crap had accumulated inside the brake. No build up of mud and the broken nuts and bits of metal they were attached to we long-gone, but unfortunately I noticed that the linings were covered with a thick oily paste which explained why the handbrake had never been worth the trouble of pulling on. Out of sight, out of mind was OK, but now I've seen it.

So need to fit a new rear seal (I assume) and just wanted to ask if there were any tips, tricks and traps to doing it. And a seal part number would be nice too if possible.

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30 Jul 2016 14:42 #2 by Peter_n_Margaret
Peter_n_Margaret replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
Check the rear TC bearing for slop too.
A leaky seal can be the result of bearing wear, in which case replacing it is only a temporary measure.

Cheers,
Peter

Cheers, Peter.
OKA196 tinyurl.com/OKA196xtMotorhome
Mob.0428171214

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30 Jul 2016 14:51 #3 by Tony Lee
Tony Lee replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
Gee Peter. I prefer the out of sight, out of mind -- or what the eyes don't see, the heart doesn't grieve -- approach, but yes, I will check. Thanks

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30 Jul 2016 15:49 #4 by Peter and Sandra OKA 374
Peter and Sandra OKA 374 replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
Tony pop down to Adelaide and Peter will have it fixed in no time ;-))

OKA 374 LT Van, converted to camper/motorhome,
400ah Lithiums, 1100w solar, diesel cooking heating and HWS,
Cummins 6BT, Allison 6 speed auto, Nissan transfer.

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30 Jul 2016 22:00 - 30 Jul 2016 22:06 #5 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal

Tony Lee wrote: And a seal part number would be nice too if possible.


Rear output seal is TC12141 or equivalent, available at local bearing suppliers.

You should be able to get the handbrake shoes relined for around $40-50.

To get a good working handbrake again, I replaced the rusty turnbuckle arrangement (from Okaparts) and the worn vertical swivel pin (just a steel bar) and clevis pins. I also extended the operating lever by about 50mm which increases the operating force.

The result is a handbrake which works well even on reasonable slopes.

Check that the cable under the dash isn't frayed or has come off the pulley. If it's frayed or twisted and won't stay on the pulley like mine was, you can shift the frayed/twisted section a bit by releasing the bottom end of the cable and fitting a temporary stop on the handle as below.

David




David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
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Last Edit: 30 Jul 2016 22:06 by dandjcr.

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31 Jul 2016 05:00 #6 by Tony Lee
Tony Lee replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
Yes, Peter said his mechanic was very skilled, but also very busy. Thanks David. The cable had come off the pully when i got the oka, but once I put it back on, it stayed there

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31 Jul 2016 12:04 #7 by Tony Lee
Tony Lee replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
The output adaptor flange (that the brake drum bolts to) had a lot of slop in it (radially) but the output shaft locknut was quite loose and certainly not the 80 to 130 ft lbs mentioned in the service manual. Actual output shaft was rock solid radially so bearing replacement is off the list.

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31 Jul 2016 14:18 #8 by Joseph Baz
Joseph Baz replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
Tony,don't forget to fit a new splined silicone washer behind the steel washer to stop any leakage along the splines
Cheers,Joe

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31 Jul 2016 14:28 #9 by Tony Lee
Tony Lee replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
Mine didn't have any such thing Joe. Maybe!

What it did have is a bead of green silicon around the inside of the steel washer facing the end of the shaft, but it wasn't thick enough to make contact with the end of the splined shaft. Perhaps it was originally over the whole face of the washer and what is remaining is what was squeezed out between the washer and the steel adaptor. If so then that explains why the nut was nowhere near tight enough.
I intended to put a bigger bead of red silicon so that it filled the void between the washer and the end of the shaft, without getting any between the washer/adaptor surface

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31 Jul 2016 14:46 #10 by Joseph Baz
Joseph Baz replied the topic: Transfer case rear output seal
I usually put a thick fillet of silicone and allow it to dry overnight before installing the washer and final torque up,still prefer the original splined washer if available.
Cheers,Joe
.

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