Steering Column Removal

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31 Oct 2012 19:04 #1 by dandjcr
dandjcr created the topic: Steering Column Removal
Forum Home > OKA Maintenance > Steering Column Removal

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
Hi all
I am going to attempt to try to fix the steering column rattle in 266 and if it is not too worn I will use Dave Ribban's method which is here

First I need to get the column out to inspect it. The Oka manual goes on with a whole lot of stuff for a complete disassembly including electrical switches etc. I don't really want to go there if I can avoid it. I would like to leave the upper column intact if I can.

Q. does anyone know if the sliding column can be collapsed enough to remove it if I undo the upper and lower clamps near the universals?
or alternatively should I just disconnect the electricals and remove the column complete and then slide the splines apart?

Pete
--
Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



January 27, 2012 at 3:30 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Chris J
Member
Posts: 56
Hi Peter,
I removed my column from OKA -166. I unclipped the wiring harness under the instrument panel, removed the 4 screws that secure the column boot from the floor, Removed the retaining bolt from the split coupling on the steering shaft and pushed a screwdriver into the split coupling to allow the shaft to slide free, last step was to remove the 4 bolts that secure the steering assemble from the chassis frame. All took about 15 minutes; I replaced both upper and lower boots and the floor mounting plate.

Regards, Chris.

--
Chris and Janice Jones - OKA 166





January 27, 2012 at 4:48 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
Thanks Chris.
I can now answer my own question as I took a slightly different approach.
for others attempting this........
The steering column (sliding shaft assy and uni joints ) can be removed without disturbing the steering wheel and controls. Just undo the split clamps at each end and collapse the sliding shaft.
Depending on how dry the splines are, some persuasion may be necessary to collapse it and pull it apart in a vise, but don't hit the bottom of the larger female splined shaft too hard or the internal circlip groove may be damaged. This holds in a polypropelyne split bush and o-rings.
This detail is not shown in the Oka manuals as the complete shaft(s), inner and outer are sold as one part, OUCH!

It doesn't take much wear in this area to have a noticeable effect at the steering wheel. I think Dave's fix will be the next job.
Pete
--
Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



January 28, 2012 at 10:52 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Peter, there is a bit more on steering column removal towards the end of this article on fixing the steering box leak.
BTW, my fix to the rattling steering column is still working fine after 2 years. It might need the clamps retightening every now and again.
Unless you need to replace the uni joints, you don't have to remove the column to do this fix, but you'll need to split the rubber boot and clamps to remove them. I then use tie wraps to hold them in place but superglue also works.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148

January 30, 2012 at 7:39 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter & Sandra James Oka 374
Member
Posts: 412
I've just pulled the steering wheel and the upper column out today, unplug the wiring plugs, undo the clamp bolt of the uni, remove the four bolts holding the upper column to the dash and lift the whole thing away.
I did this in order to access/remove the clutch master cylinder and pedal assembly, was a bugger of a job, had to also remove bonnet, wiper motor and cover and partially disassemble the brake pedal to get the clutch pedal out.
Discovered where the constant dribble of hydraulic fluid was coming from too, the crimps on the hydraulic hoses connected to the hydroboost are all seeping, some of them are also damp along their length so it appears they have gone porous. Will have to get new ones made.
--
Oka 374 LT Van

January 30, 2012 at 6:26 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter 334
Member
Posts: 118
Has any one thought of putting the wipers, indicators, light switch to the same as standard vehicles of today? It takes some time and patience, but is not too hard. I did mine when the vehicle was pulled down, sat the column on the table and got in to it , more of up to date now cheers peter
January 30, 2012 at 7:30 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
I have completed the mod to the steering column. However the column must be a different between an XT and an LT.
In my LT 266, the sliding spline is up between the pedals, but in Dave Ribban's photo it is shown as nearer to the floor which allowed him to put a plastic sleeve around the whole thing. There is just not the room to do that between the pedals

So I bent the ends of the hose clamps inwards and covered the whole thing in a good layer of gaffer tape. I used poly shock bushes on the lower shaft and heavy radiator hose to join the two halves together.
Pete
--
Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



February 2, 2012 at 5:55 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter Davis & Serena Fraser
Member
Posts: 39
Pete Fox at January 27, 2012 at 3:30 PM
Hi all
I am going to attempt to try to fix the steering column rattle in 266 and if it is not too worn I will use Dave Ribban's method which is here

First I need to get the column out to inspect it. The Oka manual goes on with a whole lot of stuff for a complete disassembly including electrical switches etc. I don't really want to go there if I can avoid it. I would like to leave the upper column intact if I can.

Q. does anyone know if the sliding column can be collapsed enough to remove it if I undo the upper and lower clamps near the universals?
or alternatively should I just disconnect the electricals and remove the column complete and then slide the splines apart?

Pete
Has anyone installed a grease nipple to the lower steering column.
If so, did it work (stop the rattle). And where did you you put the grease nipple.
I assume it would need to be above the splined section but how close to the top does it end?
My thoughts are to drill and tap (in situ) to temporarily put a grease nipple in to pump grease in above the splined section. Then to remove the grease nipple and replace with a grub screw to reseal the column but not to leave the grease nipple which might catch on the outer boot. Cheers

June 6, 2012 at 10:51 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
Peter
I didn't install a grease nipple but I did put a lot of grease into it while it was apart. The sliding joint has some orings and a poly bush in there to keep the grease in. You would have to pull it apart to determine where to drill and you would also have to have an exit point for the old grease so you might have to leave out the seals or change to a felt seal or similar

In my case the old grease was hard and dried up, I don't think that any amount of greasing would have pushed out the dried grease as it had to be wire brushed and scraped from the splines.
--
Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



June 7, 2012 at 9:29 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter Davis & Serena Fraser
Member
Posts: 39
Thanks Peter for your reply.
Can you remember how long the splined section is?
June 7, 2012 at 10:23 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Pete Fox
Member
Posts: 140
Peter
Not sure, but around 100-150mm. I have some photos and will post here tonight when I get back home
=====
Ok 2 photos. The first one shows the male spline it is about 60mm spline length

The second photo shows the female end

Note that the female spline goes nearly all the way to the end. In the recess you can see a couple of o-rings and a poly bush held in with a circlip are fitted. In order to drill a hole you would be drilling through the spline. I imagine it has been hardened. The may be a recess at the end of the spline but you would have to disassemble and measure accurately before drilling. Yuo can get some idea of the length of the female spline by looking at the shiny mark in the first image. That is where the poly bush rides.
It is fairly easy to remove the column, just remove the rubber boots and undo the bolts labelled 12 in the image below. This is for an LT, the XT may be slightly different.



--
Peter Fox

OKA 266 Multi-cab.

Photobucket album



June 8, 2012 at 7:33 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Peter Davis & Serena Fraser
Member
Posts: 39
Thanks Peter F for the photos and description. That helps alot. The workshop manual doesn't show the internals of the lower column, although it does show more of the upper column. I too have an LT. I will probably tackle the column after I've removed the lower hinge bolts of the drivers door. Top ones came out eventually but the bottom ones are very stubborn.
Cheers Peter
June 8, 2012 at 4:14 PM

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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