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- 244 First day on the Job, what a day
244 First day on the Job, what a day
- dandjcr
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01 Nov 2012 11:26 #1
by dandjcr
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
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dandjcr created the topic: 244 First day on the Job, what a day
Forum Home > OKA Maintenance > 244 First day on the Job, what a day
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Well 244 had its first day on the job 45 degrees and in 4wd all day. Some things I knew about and others appeared during the day.
It developed a leak from the transfer case, Its at the front near where the yoke bolts on. Hard to explain, there is several bolts holding a plate on, then there is square bit of metal where it leakes at the bottom
A/C is a dud, both front and rear dont work. I first thought the rear was OK, but it appears not. Bypass heater tap to no avail.
Tacho is playing up, drops 500 rpms and then picks up. Try to tighting the alternator as tight as possible. Doesnt make any noise now, but tacho still going hay wire. Also checked all wiring
Couldnt get Low Range. After some brute force, managed to get it in the end.
In 4wd you get a noise like a bearing spinning, if that makes sense. Its not constant but there.
Developing more engine leaks. After not being used that much for last several years I guess this is a given. Rocker Cover Bolts are now leaking oil, even after tighting.More oil leaks popping up everywhere.
Engine temperature reached a indicated 120 degrees C, although it didnt appear to be overheating. No smells, no lack of power etc etc. Even shutting down and restarts the same. It starts off around 80 degrees when cold, but then climbs to around 90-100 when running at around 2100 rpm (100kms or so).
Oil Gauge jumps all over the place.
Engine Earth rubbing on the front driveshaft.
And several other little things.
I am feeling nervous if its going to last the month onsite.
But one things for sure, it rides better than the 100 series I have been in on the same tracks to the new mine site.
--
November 10, 2010 at 9:43 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Hal Harvey
Site Owner
Posts: 510
>> It starts off around 80 degrees when cold <<
If it's 45 ambient and the gauge shows 80, well, the gauge could be getting/giving a dud reading. Tacho reads off the alternator as you know, so that's electrical too. Sounds like you need a good auto-electrician-&-air-conditioning man.
Others have found that low range selectivity can be improved with adjustment - only logical I guess. When it's set just right, it's easy. I know mine really wants to be trundling at about 10km/h to slot in or out readily - best planned a bit in advance rather than when stalled in a riverbed.
--
Hal
November 10, 2010 at 10:13 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Soon to be ...
Taking your issues in order:
Transfer case leak would be the front output shaft seal. Not difficult to replace but you need to remove the front drive shaft, remove the yoke (the bolt will be tight and needs a rattle gun to undo) unbolt the seal housing and tap out the old one.
A/C. If the belt is tight and the compressor is rotating it sounds like it needs re-gassing (or worst case the compressor is US). The compressor won't engage if there's insufficient gas, or it's getting no 12v. Check the compressor fuse and/or briefly short the pressure switch on the a/c filter/dryer. If the compressor starts, it needs gas, if not, probably a wiring/switch fault.
Tacho dropping is most like the alternator belt slipping, or it's very heavily loaded. Check the connectors under the instrument panel, some carry a high current (from the ignition switch) and the contacts can overheat and become high resistance causing strange effects. There is also a 4 pin connector near the alternator which carries the tacho signal. I had trouble with that. As a last resort run a new wire from the W terminal on the alt to the tacho.
Low range difficulties are most likely caused by wear in the selectors on the front of the transfer case. The clevis pin holes can become oval. There is also a clevis pin on the transfer lever shaft (in the engine compartment just near the park brake handle) which wears badly. The noise could be the clevis pins rattling (honest). Engaging LR is easiest when moving at a few kph. If you can't get out of LR, reverse up a few metres.
Oil leaks are annoying but not terminal.
Water temp problem sounds like a sender problem or wiring problem. Should sit on 80º most of the time if it's got plenty of water. Check the terminal on the sender.
Oil gauge is the same, probably the wire from the sender. Redo the connector on the sender, it fixed my problem.
Earth rubbing? Don't know where that is but you should be able to push it aside.
None of your problems are too serious, the a/c is the worst, in 45º.
Hope this helps, more info available if required.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 11, 2010 at 12:02 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Hi All,
Thanks for the encouragement.
I wasn’t complaining, more reflecting on the first day the OKA was at work. To be fair to 244, it had been sitting around a lot over the last few years or so I was told. So you have to expect things to fail, dry out etc etc
Does anyone know where you can get the front output shaft seal?
The A/C system is brand new, so it will need to be checked by someone.
Oil leaks I know are not terminal, however frustrating. I am going to order several seals for the engine, especially the rocker cover gasket and the bolts that hold it on. Next service I plan to have the valve clearances done. I will also order an oil cooler seal; I have temporally fixed this with silicone.
Water Temp is a concern. I will order a new sender and see what happens. In the morning the gauge reads where I would expect it to, however as the day goes on it reads higher. But it doesn’t appear to be hot. I did put about 300 ml in the header tank today. I have pressured tested the system, it appears OK.
I fixed the earth lead which was rubbing on the front tail shaft.
Both the transfer and gearbox linkages need adjusting I think, so that will be a job for another day.
--
November 11, 2010 at 9:21 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
I got a front transfer box seal from Paul Nott, see here. Also a new Nyloc yoke nut.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 11, 2010 at 10:05 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
Front shaft seal on my transfer case was leaking a little and it turned out to be the yolk nut loose by a considerable amount - to the extent that the drive shaft could be moved up and down by hand.
Tightened nut and have had no further leaks.
--
Tony
picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379
November 11, 2010 at 12:28 PM Flag Quote & Reply
David Hallandal
Member
Posts: 133
If you are running Dyee in your A/C the run a black light over it, likely to be just a joint not 100%, Seen plenty of vehicles (Pajero's, Triton's, Patrol's..) all have there A/C fail when in low range and in 43 plus weather in the High Country. Carpet on the Glove boxes and Dash pod will help with reducing the heat soak in these interior exposed heat sinks
November 11, 2010 at 4:31 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Anyone have the part number for the transfer front ouput yoke seal?
--
November 11, 2010 at 7:28 PM Flag Quote & Reply
David Hallandal
Member
Posts: 133
Engine Oil:
Castrol CRF 30, SAE 30 TO APICD/SF - 8.00 Litres
Gearbox Oil(Dana Spicer 5 Speed Manual):
Castrol 80 W 90 TO API GL5/MIL-L-2105B - 3.70Litres, Note Same and Front Diff
Transfer CaseOil:
Castrol CRF 30, SAE 30 TO APICD/SF - 2.00 Litres
Hydraulic Oil(Power Steering):
Castrol, Transmax M - 4.00 Litres
Diff, Front:
Castrol 80 W 90 TO API GL5/MIL-L-2105B - 3.50Litres, Note: Same and Gearbox,
Diff, Rear(Fitted With ARB Diff Lock):
Shell Spirax HD 85W-140, or Mobil Mobilube GX140 – 3.5 Litres
UNI JOINTS
Steering 5 – 332 X Spicer No.
Make sure they have a grease nipple.
Tail Shaft K5 – GB10RHD
Again these ones have grease nipples and heavy duty seals.
FRONT SIDE BLINKER LIGHTS
Order through Repco - OKA tail lights, mirrors etc.
Britax Part No. 10430.01 (Blinker Lights) – these blinkers use a small “capless” bulb.
DRIVE BELTS
For Air Conditioner – Part No. Air con 9520 – 13A1320
Alternator - 9425 – 13A1080
Window Winders (front doors) 510L0507250DS
Air Filters
Primary: DONALDSON Part No. P133765
Secondary: DONALDSON (safety) Part No. P136401
Engine Oil Filter:
Donaldson Part No. P554407
or
FLEETGUARD, No L.F.699
Hydraulic Oil Return Line Filter:
Donaldson Part Number: P550162
or
RYCO, Z79A
Fuel Filters
1st Filter Element only FLEETGUARD, FS 1240
1st Filter Sediment bowl & filter element (both parts) FS 1240B
Note, Next “filter” is a fuel sediment and water bowl only and needs inspectionand draining and cleaning when necessary.
Fuel Filter On Engine
Donaldson Part No. P557111
or
Perkins No. 26561117 Power Part
For All Donaldson Filters Contact:
Rasch Industries, U2 1069 South Road, Melrose Park, SouthAustralia, Ph: (08) 8299 0266
Gear linkagesRodends: part number BL12BD from CBC Bearings. Ensure they have M12 threads with 1.75 pitch. Note later Oka's (after Vin 137) may havedifferent rod end types and sizes.
There are 4 rod ends, 1 on the transfer shaft and 3 on the gearbox shaft. The one attached above the bell housing is difficult to access but is probably not worn anyway since it only acts as an anchor point. Most pivot pin holes onlinking bars were elongated due to vibration. Weld up and re-drill the correctsize or pack with shim material.
Replace all clevis pins and fit washers between the moving parts to minimiselateral movement. Movement causes noise and wear. Grease everything well.
Wheel Bearings (LT&XT)
FrontInner cup 382A
Inner cone 387A
Outer cup LM 104911
Outer cone LM 104949
Rear Inner cup 45220
Inner cone 45291
Outer cup LM 104911
Outer cone LM 104949
Note: All "DAN....." Part Numbers Listed in the OKA Parts Manual CanBe Converted By CBC Bearings as they are a Genuine Dana Part Number and areListed on their Conversion Charts
Front and Rear Diff Pinion SealNational Federal Mogul 9316
or CR18888
XT Transfer Case Front Output
Speedie sleeve CR99212
Seal CR27467 (2 can be fitted)
XT Transfer Case Rear Output
Speedie sleeve CR99087
Seal CR TC12141
Temperature Sensor UnitVDO 320.031
XT Speedo sensor
TURCK# BI8U-M18-AN6X Available from Micromax 1300 326 626 approx $150 Plus GST Plusfrieght.
Rear Hub Seal
National Federal Mogul 415086N
Steering Box TRW
New TRW Steering Boxes and Rebuilds (To NT Standard)
Australian Importers: Complete SteeringAustralia Pty.Ltd. Phone 03 9369 2659
or
SafetySteer, 22 White Road, Gepps Cross, South Australia, Phone: 08 8349 6364
Steering Damper
PowerdownSteering Dampener, Part no: SS-2716. www.powerdown.com.au/ .
SafetySteer, 22 White Road, Gepps Cross, South Australia, Phone: 08 8349 6364
Perkins 100Series Motor Parts
In Sydney all Perkins 100 series try EIP Diesel P/L
37 Eddie Road, Minchinbury NSW 2770, Phone: (02) 9675 3444
Or
A W Diesel Repair Services, 12 Fifth St Wingfield, South Australia, 5013, 08 8347 0083
November 12, 2010 at 7:11 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
LS oil specified for Limited Slip Diffs - or is that a bit of a furphy now.
--
Tony
picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379
November 12, 2010 at 11:12 AM
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Well 244 had its first day on the job 45 degrees and in 4wd all day. Some things I knew about and others appeared during the day.
It developed a leak from the transfer case, Its at the front near where the yoke bolts on. Hard to explain, there is several bolts holding a plate on, then there is square bit of metal where it leakes at the bottom
A/C is a dud, both front and rear dont work. I first thought the rear was OK, but it appears not. Bypass heater tap to no avail.
Tacho is playing up, drops 500 rpms and then picks up. Try to tighting the alternator as tight as possible. Doesnt make any noise now, but tacho still going hay wire. Also checked all wiring
Couldnt get Low Range. After some brute force, managed to get it in the end.
In 4wd you get a noise like a bearing spinning, if that makes sense. Its not constant but there.
Developing more engine leaks. After not being used that much for last several years I guess this is a given. Rocker Cover Bolts are now leaking oil, even after tighting.More oil leaks popping up everywhere.
Engine temperature reached a indicated 120 degrees C, although it didnt appear to be overheating. No smells, no lack of power etc etc. Even shutting down and restarts the same. It starts off around 80 degrees when cold, but then climbs to around 90-100 when running at around 2100 rpm (100kms or so).
Oil Gauge jumps all over the place.
Engine Earth rubbing on the front driveshaft.
And several other little things.
I am feeling nervous if its going to last the month onsite.
But one things for sure, it rides better than the 100 series I have been in on the same tracks to the new mine site.
--
November 10, 2010 at 9:43 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Hal Harvey
Site Owner
Posts: 510
>> It starts off around 80 degrees when cold <<
If it's 45 ambient and the gauge shows 80, well, the gauge could be getting/giving a dud reading. Tacho reads off the alternator as you know, so that's electrical too. Sounds like you need a good auto-electrician-&-air-conditioning man.
Others have found that low range selectivity can be improved with adjustment - only logical I guess. When it's set just right, it's easy. I know mine really wants to be trundling at about 10km/h to slot in or out readily - best planned a bit in advance rather than when stalled in a riverbed.
--
Hal
November 10, 2010 at 10:13 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Soon to be ...
Taking your issues in order:
Transfer case leak would be the front output shaft seal. Not difficult to replace but you need to remove the front drive shaft, remove the yoke (the bolt will be tight and needs a rattle gun to undo) unbolt the seal housing and tap out the old one.
A/C. If the belt is tight and the compressor is rotating it sounds like it needs re-gassing (or worst case the compressor is US). The compressor won't engage if there's insufficient gas, or it's getting no 12v. Check the compressor fuse and/or briefly short the pressure switch on the a/c filter/dryer. If the compressor starts, it needs gas, if not, probably a wiring/switch fault.
Tacho dropping is most like the alternator belt slipping, or it's very heavily loaded. Check the connectors under the instrument panel, some carry a high current (from the ignition switch) and the contacts can overheat and become high resistance causing strange effects. There is also a 4 pin connector near the alternator which carries the tacho signal. I had trouble with that. As a last resort run a new wire from the W terminal on the alt to the tacho.
Low range difficulties are most likely caused by wear in the selectors on the front of the transfer case. The clevis pin holes can become oval. There is also a clevis pin on the transfer lever shaft (in the engine compartment just near the park brake handle) which wears badly. The noise could be the clevis pins rattling (honest). Engaging LR is easiest when moving at a few kph. If you can't get out of LR, reverse up a few metres.
Oil leaks are annoying but not terminal.
Water temp problem sounds like a sender problem or wiring problem. Should sit on 80º most of the time if it's got plenty of water. Check the terminal on the sender.
Oil gauge is the same, probably the wire from the sender. Redo the connector on the sender, it fixed my problem.
Earth rubbing? Don't know where that is but you should be able to push it aside.
None of your problems are too serious, the a/c is the worst, in 45º.
Hope this helps, more info available if required.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 11, 2010 at 12:02 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Hi All,
Thanks for the encouragement.
I wasn’t complaining, more reflecting on the first day the OKA was at work. To be fair to 244, it had been sitting around a lot over the last few years or so I was told. So you have to expect things to fail, dry out etc etc
Does anyone know where you can get the front output shaft seal?
The A/C system is brand new, so it will need to be checked by someone.
Oil leaks I know are not terminal, however frustrating. I am going to order several seals for the engine, especially the rocker cover gasket and the bolts that hold it on. Next service I plan to have the valve clearances done. I will also order an oil cooler seal; I have temporally fixed this with silicone.
Water Temp is a concern. I will order a new sender and see what happens. In the morning the gauge reads where I would expect it to, however as the day goes on it reads higher. But it doesn’t appear to be hot. I did put about 300 ml in the header tank today. I have pressured tested the system, it appears OK.
I fixed the earth lead which was rubbing on the front tail shaft.
Both the transfer and gearbox linkages need adjusting I think, so that will be a job for another day.
--
November 11, 2010 at 9:21 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
I got a front transfer box seal from Paul Nott, see here. Also a new Nyloc yoke nut.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 11, 2010 at 10:05 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
Front shaft seal on my transfer case was leaking a little and it turned out to be the yolk nut loose by a considerable amount - to the extent that the drive shaft could be moved up and down by hand.
Tightened nut and have had no further leaks.
--
Tony
picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379
November 11, 2010 at 12:28 PM Flag Quote & Reply
David Hallandal
Member
Posts: 133
If you are running Dyee in your A/C the run a black light over it, likely to be just a joint not 100%, Seen plenty of vehicles (Pajero's, Triton's, Patrol's..) all have there A/C fail when in low range and in 43 plus weather in the High Country. Carpet on the Glove boxes and Dash pod will help with reducing the heat soak in these interior exposed heat sinks
November 11, 2010 at 4:31 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Anyone have the part number for the transfer front ouput yoke seal?
--
November 11, 2010 at 7:28 PM Flag Quote & Reply
David Hallandal
Member
Posts: 133
Engine Oil:
Castrol CRF 30, SAE 30 TO APICD/SF - 8.00 Litres
Gearbox Oil(Dana Spicer 5 Speed Manual):
Castrol 80 W 90 TO API GL5/MIL-L-2105B - 3.70Litres, Note Same and Front Diff
Transfer CaseOil:
Castrol CRF 30, SAE 30 TO APICD/SF - 2.00 Litres
Hydraulic Oil(Power Steering):
Castrol, Transmax M - 4.00 Litres
Diff, Front:
Castrol 80 W 90 TO API GL5/MIL-L-2105B - 3.50Litres, Note: Same and Gearbox,
Diff, Rear(Fitted With ARB Diff Lock):
Shell Spirax HD 85W-140, or Mobil Mobilube GX140 – 3.5 Litres
UNI JOINTS
Steering 5 – 332 X Spicer No.
Make sure they have a grease nipple.
Tail Shaft K5 – GB10RHD
Again these ones have grease nipples and heavy duty seals.
FRONT SIDE BLINKER LIGHTS
Order through Repco - OKA tail lights, mirrors etc.
Britax Part No. 10430.01 (Blinker Lights) – these blinkers use a small “capless” bulb.
DRIVE BELTS
For Air Conditioner – Part No. Air con 9520 – 13A1320
Alternator - 9425 – 13A1080
Window Winders (front doors) 510L0507250DS
Air Filters
Primary: DONALDSON Part No. P133765
Secondary: DONALDSON (safety) Part No. P136401
Engine Oil Filter:
Donaldson Part No. P554407
or
FLEETGUARD, No L.F.699
Hydraulic Oil Return Line Filter:
Donaldson Part Number: P550162
or
RYCO, Z79A
Fuel Filters
1st Filter Element only FLEETGUARD, FS 1240
1st Filter Sediment bowl & filter element (both parts) FS 1240B
Note, Next “filter” is a fuel sediment and water bowl only and needs inspectionand draining and cleaning when necessary.
Fuel Filter On Engine
Donaldson Part No. P557111
or
Perkins No. 26561117 Power Part
For All Donaldson Filters Contact:
Rasch Industries, U2 1069 South Road, Melrose Park, SouthAustralia, Ph: (08) 8299 0266
Gear linkagesRodends: part number BL12BD from CBC Bearings. Ensure they have M12 threads with 1.75 pitch. Note later Oka's (after Vin 137) may havedifferent rod end types and sizes.
There are 4 rod ends, 1 on the transfer shaft and 3 on the gearbox shaft. The one attached above the bell housing is difficult to access but is probably not worn anyway since it only acts as an anchor point. Most pivot pin holes onlinking bars were elongated due to vibration. Weld up and re-drill the correctsize or pack with shim material.
Replace all clevis pins and fit washers between the moving parts to minimiselateral movement. Movement causes noise and wear. Grease everything well.
Wheel Bearings (LT&XT)
FrontInner cup 382A
Inner cone 387A
Outer cup LM 104911
Outer cone LM 104949
Rear Inner cup 45220
Inner cone 45291
Outer cup LM 104911
Outer cone LM 104949
Note: All "DAN....." Part Numbers Listed in the OKA Parts Manual CanBe Converted By CBC Bearings as they are a Genuine Dana Part Number and areListed on their Conversion Charts
Front and Rear Diff Pinion SealNational Federal Mogul 9316
or CR18888
XT Transfer Case Front Output
Speedie sleeve CR99212
Seal CR27467 (2 can be fitted)
XT Transfer Case Rear Output
Speedie sleeve CR99087
Seal CR TC12141
Temperature Sensor UnitVDO 320.031
XT Speedo sensor
TURCK# BI8U-M18-AN6X Available from Micromax 1300 326 626 approx $150 Plus GST Plusfrieght.
Rear Hub Seal
National Federal Mogul 415086N
Steering Box TRW
New TRW Steering Boxes and Rebuilds (To NT Standard)
Australian Importers: Complete SteeringAustralia Pty.Ltd. Phone 03 9369 2659
or
SafetySteer, 22 White Road, Gepps Cross, South Australia, Phone: 08 8349 6364
Steering Damper
PowerdownSteering Dampener, Part no: SS-2716. www.powerdown.com.au/ .
SafetySteer, 22 White Road, Gepps Cross, South Australia, Phone: 08 8349 6364
Perkins 100Series Motor Parts
In Sydney all Perkins 100 series try EIP Diesel P/L
37 Eddie Road, Minchinbury NSW 2770, Phone: (02) 9675 3444
Or
A W Diesel Repair Services, 12 Fifth St Wingfield, South Australia, 5013, 08 8347 0083
November 12, 2010 at 7:11 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
LS oil specified for Limited Slip Diffs - or is that a bit of a furphy now.
--
Tony
picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379
November 12, 2010 at 11:12 AM
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
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