XT Heater Tap
- dandjcr
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01 Nov 2012 11:34 #1
by dandjcr
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
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dandjcr created the topic: XT Heater Tap
Forum Home > OKA Maintenance > XT Heater Tap
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
HI All,
Where is the heater tap located on a XT? New A/C doesnt get cold, maybe heater tap is on??
Cheers
--
November 1, 2010 at 11:09 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Mark Pain
Member
Posts: 23
Hi,
the heater tap (Valve?) on my XT is located underneath the Glovebox (for want of a better word) on the passengers side. I can get to mine by removing the plastic tray.
Regards
Mark Pain
November 1, 2010 at 11:24 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Which a/c did you have fitted?
If the a/c is new, the installer should have checked the outlet air temperature after gassing it.
My a/c takes some time to cool down since the air has to cool all the metal pipework before it reaches the outlets. Try it with a cold engine since the heater can't then be working.
Check that the compressor is rotating. If not it could be an electrical fault or the system needs regassing. There is a pressure switch which prevents the compressor from being engaged if there is no gas pressure. There might also be a temperature switch/thermostat to prevent it being engaged at low ambient temperatures.
If the compressor is rotating, check that it's working by feeling the inlet and outlet pipes on the a/c radiator while it's running (usually in front behind the grille). Its cooling fan should be running and one pipe (from the compressor) should be hot an the other should be cooler to the touch, indicating that the gas is being compressed and is circulating.
Lastly, the pipes around the evaporator under the dashboard should be cold and its circulation fan should be running.
Hope this helps.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 2, 2010 at 12:22 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
HI David,
Yes it does appear to be working, Everything is brand new, Installer could only get 14 degrees at the outlets. I thought was it was high, however he is the expert and i am not.
I will have to do some more checking I guess.
I was aware that you had to cool the dash before it will start to cool the rest of the vehicle.
It was cooler with the windows down that with the A/C on.
So I am not sure what the go is.
--
November 2, 2010 at 7:55 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
14 deg seems too high. Around 5-7 degrees seems to be the aim for the air outlet temperature, after stabilisation.
Normally ice can form around the evaporator and certainly water vapour should condense and dribble out of the evaporator drain pipe, especially in humid conditions.
Something is wrong. As everything seems to be working, my guess is that there is insufficient gas in the system, either it wasn't charged properly or you have a serious leak.
The system is inadequate so you'll need to take it back. In the north or in outback conditions, even in winter you will need an efficient a/c system.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 2, 2010 at 8:42 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
I had mine regassed soon after buying it and it seemed to work reasonably well - although at the time I had the crew cab unit sitting on the engine cover and that really did most of the work. Now that I have the crew cab blocked off from the front and haven't got around to ducting the crew cab unit forward, I realise how totally ineffectual the front unit really is - and that assessment is made at this time of the year rather than high summer.
It's not because of any lack of noise from the fan, but mostly because the outlet vents - every single one - is either too small, or with no directional adjustment or totally in the wrong place
Yes, cooler with the windows open
--
Tony
picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379
November 2, 2010 at 8:49 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Peter & Sandra James Oka 374
Member
Posts: 412
Quite often old heater taps will leak hot water to the heater circuit as they either don't close properly or are corroded with some of the tap worn/corroded away internally. Unfortunately it is hard to see unless the tap is removed completely, if the pipe is hot on the heater side when it is turned off then the tap is the problem.
The other scenario is that it has been plumbed incorrectly especially if the HVAC unit has been removed and reinstalled during the a/c work.
November 2, 2010 at 8:51 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Our front a/c is not as efficient as a modern car's is, due to the fairly small evaporator and the amount of metal work in the dash which is not insulated, but it still does work. We blocked off the 2 centre outlets to force air through the side outlets in front of the driver and passenger, which helps.
Also if you are lucky to have a bus with a rear a/c, they are much more effective than the front in-dash system (bigger evaporator and more powerful fan motors).
We redirected the air from the rear a/c to the front through a 3 inch flexible pipe (could have been bigger for more air flow). The air is distributed across the roof in a rectangular plastic conduit (100x50 gutter down pipe) fitted with eyeball outlets removed from the rear cabin. This really works well and the overhead cold air can freeze us, even in very hot conditions.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 2, 2010 at 9:06 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
One more thing to check is that the a/c air outlet is not receiving outside warmer air mixed in with the cold air. Check the air mixer doors/flaps.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 2, 2010 at 9:39 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Paul & Sue Crompton
Member
Posts: 44
I had a similar problem. When I first purchased the Oka, it didn't have air conditioning. I fitted an air conditioner but it wasn't working properly initially. It worked great when the motor was first started (cold motor). My heater valve wasn't fully closed. After we fixed that problem, the air conditioner still didn't come down in temperature any lower than about 15. I took it back to the air conditioner fitter and he felt the system was working fine but suggested another system which was going to cost me even more.
Anyway, what I ended up doing was insulating all the metal ducting along the dashboard with quarter inch foam and silver backing and just glued it to the ducting. The difference it made was amazing as I can now adjust it to go down as low as 3. I guess the heat from the motor must really heat up the metal ducting. So, if your air conditioner is really working well when you first start up, this maybe worth a try.
--
Paul & Sue Crompton
November 2, 2010 at 7:00 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
any pictures?
--
November 2, 2010 at 7:28 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Ewart & Vivian Halford
Member
Posts: 117
The heater tap on mine is between the fan and the radiator inside the cowling. There was no flap on mine where outside air comes in so I covered up the opening and that helped. I also have the dual cab unit on the sealing and this is the better unit.
Ewart
November 2, 2010 at 11:38 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
The evaporator is from a Nissan Patrol Wagon, so it should be ok, Must be the metal work in the dash which causes the main problem.
I will have to a find a better way to insulate it. It still not cold even in the morning, so will replace heater valve first
--
November 3, 2010 at 12:40 AM Flag Quote & Reply
okadoc
Member
Posts: 98
Hi all,any one feeling their a/c is up to mud need to determine the accurate air on air off temperatures of the indoor forced draft evaporator,cabin temperature recorded in locations around the conditioned space to determine average cabin temperature. Ambient shade temperature,temperature of outside air entering the condensor and if you have a lazer temp device or a temp touch probe to tell the temp of small hot liquid line leaving the receiver/drier (to find it follow the small outlet line from the condensor until you find a approx 50mm dia 125 mm long cylinder with inlet and outlet pipes 3/8 in approx dia and usually a pressure switch with two wires attached to it and on the top between the pipe entry and exits you will find a sight glass which will display either clear or maybe bubbles which indicate the system is short of refrigerant.The engine has to be at 1500RPM whilst monitoring everything with highest fan speed engaged and cabin enclosed from outside air with recirculation mode not fresh air mode activated. Post these operating parameters here and I will respond and only to glad to assist with troublshooting your system.
Cheers all Doc and Lyn Davey
--
November 3, 2010 at 12:26 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Oka Paul
Member
Posts: 7
fixed heaps of these by resealing dash and duct doors properly replace heater tap clean evaperator and condencer check compressor for correct working/head pressures then all should be ok Lt system is far better than xt
November 3, 2010 at 11:52 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Thanks Paul, and good to see you do know how to fumble your way around a keyboard.
The A/C system is brand new, everything is new.
So I will check flaps and order a new tap.
How do you go about insulating things better?
--
November 4, 2010 at 5:26 PM
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
HI All,
Where is the heater tap located on a XT? New A/C doesnt get cold, maybe heater tap is on??
Cheers
--
November 1, 2010 at 11:09 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Mark Pain
Member
Posts: 23
Hi,
the heater tap (Valve?) on my XT is located underneath the Glovebox (for want of a better word) on the passengers side. I can get to mine by removing the plastic tray.
Regards
Mark Pain
November 1, 2010 at 11:24 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Which a/c did you have fitted?
If the a/c is new, the installer should have checked the outlet air temperature after gassing it.
My a/c takes some time to cool down since the air has to cool all the metal pipework before it reaches the outlets. Try it with a cold engine since the heater can't then be working.
Check that the compressor is rotating. If not it could be an electrical fault or the system needs regassing. There is a pressure switch which prevents the compressor from being engaged if there is no gas pressure. There might also be a temperature switch/thermostat to prevent it being engaged at low ambient temperatures.
If the compressor is rotating, check that it's working by feeling the inlet and outlet pipes on the a/c radiator while it's running (usually in front behind the grille). Its cooling fan should be running and one pipe (from the compressor) should be hot an the other should be cooler to the touch, indicating that the gas is being compressed and is circulating.
Lastly, the pipes around the evaporator under the dashboard should be cold and its circulation fan should be running.
Hope this helps.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 2, 2010 at 12:22 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
HI David,
Yes it does appear to be working, Everything is brand new, Installer could only get 14 degrees at the outlets. I thought was it was high, however he is the expert and i am not.
I will have to do some more checking I guess.
I was aware that you had to cool the dash before it will start to cool the rest of the vehicle.
It was cooler with the windows down that with the A/C on.
So I am not sure what the go is.
--
November 2, 2010 at 7:55 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
14 deg seems too high. Around 5-7 degrees seems to be the aim for the air outlet temperature, after stabilisation.
Normally ice can form around the evaporator and certainly water vapour should condense and dribble out of the evaporator drain pipe, especially in humid conditions.
Something is wrong. As everything seems to be working, my guess is that there is insufficient gas in the system, either it wasn't charged properly or you have a serious leak.
The system is inadequate so you'll need to take it back. In the north or in outback conditions, even in winter you will need an efficient a/c system.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 2, 2010 at 8:42 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Tony Lee
Member
Posts: 539
I had mine regassed soon after buying it and it seemed to work reasonably well - although at the time I had the crew cab unit sitting on the engine cover and that really did most of the work. Now that I have the crew cab blocked off from the front and haven't got around to ducting the crew cab unit forward, I realise how totally ineffectual the front unit really is - and that assessment is made at this time of the year rather than high summer.
It's not because of any lack of noise from the fan, but mostly because the outlet vents - every single one - is either too small, or with no directional adjustment or totally in the wrong place
Yes, cooler with the windows open
--
Tony
picasaweb.google.com/114611728110254134379
November 2, 2010 at 8:49 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Peter & Sandra James Oka 374
Member
Posts: 412
Quite often old heater taps will leak hot water to the heater circuit as they either don't close properly or are corroded with some of the tap worn/corroded away internally. Unfortunately it is hard to see unless the tap is removed completely, if the pipe is hot on the heater side when it is turned off then the tap is the problem.
The other scenario is that it has been plumbed incorrectly especially if the HVAC unit has been removed and reinstalled during the a/c work.
November 2, 2010 at 8:51 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Our front a/c is not as efficient as a modern car's is, due to the fairly small evaporator and the amount of metal work in the dash which is not insulated, but it still does work. We blocked off the 2 centre outlets to force air through the side outlets in front of the driver and passenger, which helps.
Also if you are lucky to have a bus with a rear a/c, they are much more effective than the front in-dash system (bigger evaporator and more powerful fan motors).
We redirected the air from the rear a/c to the front through a 3 inch flexible pipe (could have been bigger for more air flow). The air is distributed across the roof in a rectangular plastic conduit (100x50 gutter down pipe) fitted with eyeball outlets removed from the rear cabin. This really works well and the overhead cold air can freeze us, even in very hot conditions.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 2, 2010 at 9:06 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
One more thing to check is that the a/c air outlet is not receiving outside warmer air mixed in with the cold air. Check the air mixer doors/flaps.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
November 2, 2010 at 9:39 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Paul & Sue Crompton
Member
Posts: 44
I had a similar problem. When I first purchased the Oka, it didn't have air conditioning. I fitted an air conditioner but it wasn't working properly initially. It worked great when the motor was first started (cold motor). My heater valve wasn't fully closed. After we fixed that problem, the air conditioner still didn't come down in temperature any lower than about 15. I took it back to the air conditioner fitter and he felt the system was working fine but suggested another system which was going to cost me even more.
Anyway, what I ended up doing was insulating all the metal ducting along the dashboard with quarter inch foam and silver backing and just glued it to the ducting. The difference it made was amazing as I can now adjust it to go down as low as 3. I guess the heat from the motor must really heat up the metal ducting. So, if your air conditioner is really working well when you first start up, this maybe worth a try.
--
Paul & Sue Crompton
November 2, 2010 at 7:00 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
any pictures?
--
November 2, 2010 at 7:28 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Ewart & Vivian Halford
Member
Posts: 117
The heater tap on mine is between the fan and the radiator inside the cowling. There was no flap on mine where outside air comes in so I covered up the opening and that helped. I also have the dual cab unit on the sealing and this is the better unit.
Ewart
November 2, 2010 at 11:38 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
The evaporator is from a Nissan Patrol Wagon, so it should be ok, Must be the metal work in the dash which causes the main problem.
I will have to a find a better way to insulate it. It still not cold even in the morning, so will replace heater valve first
--
November 3, 2010 at 12:40 AM Flag Quote & Reply
okadoc
Member
Posts: 98
Hi all,any one feeling their a/c is up to mud need to determine the accurate air on air off temperatures of the indoor forced draft evaporator,cabin temperature recorded in locations around the conditioned space to determine average cabin temperature. Ambient shade temperature,temperature of outside air entering the condensor and if you have a lazer temp device or a temp touch probe to tell the temp of small hot liquid line leaving the receiver/drier (to find it follow the small outlet line from the condensor until you find a approx 50mm dia 125 mm long cylinder with inlet and outlet pipes 3/8 in approx dia and usually a pressure switch with two wires attached to it and on the top between the pipe entry and exits you will find a sight glass which will display either clear or maybe bubbles which indicate the system is short of refrigerant.The engine has to be at 1500RPM whilst monitoring everything with highest fan speed engaged and cabin enclosed from outside air with recirculation mode not fresh air mode activated. Post these operating parameters here and I will respond and only to glad to assist with troublshooting your system.
Cheers all Doc and Lyn Davey
--
November 3, 2010 at 12:26 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Oka Paul
Member
Posts: 7
fixed heaps of these by resealing dash and duct doors properly replace heater tap clean evaperator and condencer check compressor for correct working/head pressures then all should be ok Lt system is far better than xt
November 3, 2010 at 11:52 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Thanks Paul, and good to see you do know how to fumble your way around a keyboard.
The A/C system is brand new, everything is new.
So I will check flaps and order a new tap.
How do you go about insulating things better?
--
November 4, 2010 at 5:26 PM
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
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