Rust in bottom door panel
- Posts: 781
dandjcr wrote: With your panache for excellentness, how would you suggest I dealt with this...
a permanent solution would be preferable.
At the risk of telling my grandmother... have to say that my door fix is far from perfect or permanent.
I have no delusions. It is just a band aid job.
To see it done properly check out Frank's work on #146 here
That is not to say there is no place for band aiding providing it is done right.
some steps are vital (I am not a panel beater so all contradictions/contributions welcome)
1. As Brett says..
Agree %100. Because of the high quality materials used in building the OKA, rust spots are nearly always remote from the cause. The water can travel a long way to a point of "weakness" (eg spotweld) where once the rust starts it takes off unchecked internally and unseen.
outyonda wrote: Looks like the roof leaks & water is running down frame
Fix the cause then tackle the problem
earlier post about #95 is perfect example (see later)
Leakage from around roof skin where it is sikaflexed and spot welded to the cab runs down the inside of the door pillar frame causing rust probs all the way down to the bull bar..
The seal around the OKA windscreen is also a real problem. Ultimate solution is to remove windscreen, repair all rust around the edge, weld in 25mm edge strip and have new glass vulcanised into place.
Short of this, without removing the windscreen the best you can do is try to remove all gunk and rust under the edge of the rubber and make sure it is thoroughly filled with automotive windscreen sealant.
2. Completely cut out all rust.
3. Grind/buff surfaces immediately adjacent to repair to remove all traces of rust and paint and treat with rust converter,
4. Any structural replacements have to be fully welded using the same material. Skin patches also need to be cut from same material to an exact fit and should be welded in place to give good surface alignment and prevent future movement. Have to be very careful to take your time and avoid heating the patch and the skin.
If you cannot access a skin patch from the inside to fully seal welds and inner edges do not weld it. Use good quality body filler (bog is not always a dirty word .. its just how and where you use it) over an existing fully rust proofed and sealed member as a backing and/or create a support backing surface made of noncorrosove material and stick it to inside of the hole with filler from the outside (tricky). Then attach the exactly cut patch to the backing surface in the hole so it aligns smoothly with the surrounding panel. This will only work if..
..You use the right amount of filler, enough to seal, but not enough to cause movement when it shrinks.
..All rust has been completely removed
..All metal surfaces are covered and sealed with filler and/or prefereably paint
..No water can get to the metal.
5. Take out any imperfections with filler and/or primer filler.
6. Etch prime all bare metal.
7. Prime and top coat inside and out.
8. Do not weld the skin to the frame, use suitable adhesive (eg sikaflex) and if necessary stainless rivets. Pre drill holes prior to painting.
Note: as said, the above refers only to band aiding and it will not last forever. Although it should arrest further rust attack if done properly.
Better alternative is to fully re-skin but it can be done badly causing rust.
RE My comment regarding Bretts reference to #95's re-birth...
Rick Whitworth wrote:
outyonda wrote: Check out my old post DULUX OVERHAUL
This is a great example of how rust can be working away inside...
I remembered copying the pics of #95 that were posted on a purpose built OKA95 For Sale website published in 2011 to my computer. The actual dates on the images go back to 2007.
There is also a copy of the OKA95 For Sale pics on this website.
Bretts DULUX OVERHAUL is dated 2015.
So it looks like it took only 8 years for this to look MUCH TOO SCARY
The front driver and passenger wind up windows are another story.. It is impossible to set them up to keep water and moisture from running down the inside of the door skin. Holes in the bottom of the frames to let water out are essential but all of the inside of the door panels needs to be sealed with the same level of protection as the outside.
This is OK in the top area with easy access via the door linings.
However the space at the bottom of the door is inaccessible and notorious for rust.
Four years ago, the second time I had to refurb the bottom of the frame (this blog), I put a removeable panel screwed into 8 nutserts (rivnuts) set inside the area sealed by the door rubber.
It has made rust prevention easy and has already saved me another refurb.
- T-Rex 146
- Posts: 74
yes Mary it was a typo should have been #164. The link has broken and should point to here
T-Rex 146 wrote: Interested to see #146 mentioned being worked on by Frank? We have owned Oka 146 since 2015 and previous to that it belong to Exploranges Bushwalking Tours. Did not know he did any work on our vehicle. Perhaps a typo?
It would be nice if members could edit their old posts so they could fix these old links.
again the links in the original post have been broken and should be as above.
In the first link if you tapped on the picture for Oka 095 it opened up a series of pics taken from an old OKA 95 FOR SALE website that showed a brand new looking fully refurbed truck, not at all like those under the MUCH TOO SCARY link that shows the same truck only 8 yrs later. Shows the need for effective continuous maintenance.
The lost Oka 095 photos used to be part of a very interesting extensive album created by forum members under the Community tab that is still on the top of this website but now goes nowhere. The cover pages for the albums seem to be floating around somewhere but I can't find their contents. It would be great if they could be found and restored.
- John and Bronwyn
- Posts: 107
I only came across Penetrol recently (and then found Joe's post in retrospect).
It has very good rust penetrant properties then dries to a skin with good adhesion which can be painted over. It can also be mixed into oil-base paints.
It looks very promising - I am using it while giving a cosmetic upgrade to 191 - short of a refurb but addressing various rust areas including the doors, then a full body strip & repaint due to the paint peeling off the zincalume of the replacement skin. (bother!)
I've picked up Rick's idea of an access to the door bottom section too.