6bt oil capacity

I have a question about the oil capacity of a 6bt motor. The motor in my oka is an ex genset engine. I thus assume it has the industrial sump which has a capacity of 14.2 litres. I have recently done an oil and filter change, and it took approx 17 litres of oil to bring the level to midway in the acceptable depth on the dipstick. I can partly rationalize the amount of oil required as the dipstick is at the front of the deep section of the sump, and the engine is mounted with a 5.5 degree tilt back. Hence the oil level would be higher at the rear of the engine. However, this seems like way too much oil. Does anyone have any ideas on this? Cheers Tony

When I put my genset motor in I changed the sump and dip stick, the original was aluminium and had a flat bottom. I think mine is around 17l.

Both Ralley's and my 6bt's had the flat long alloy cast industrial sumps with a little short dipstick low down on the side of the block and we both changed to the automotive style which is pressed steel and has a deep section with a dipstick that comes right up to the top of the engine. There are two different automotive pressed steel sumps, one of 17L capacity and one of 11 L capacity.
Some earlier genset motors had the pressed steel sumps and they were often mounted with the deep section at the front, as the block skirt is mirrored they can be reversed but a different longer oil pickup pipe is required, 11L sump is p/n 3925772 along with oil pickup tube 3928455.
The existing dipstick also needs to be removed and a Dodge Ram one p/n 3279104 & 3916850 fitted in the rearmost hole on the LHS of the block.
Rob has the 17L one and I have an 11L one.
One thing to note is that with the automotive dipsticks which have a "SAFE" area marked on them the oil should only be filled to the bottom of the "SAFE" area to avoid oil aeration and possible rear main seal leaks.

Thanks guys for the helpful info. I have looked at my sump again and I would say it is the 17l automotive sump. P/N 3915703. That would also explain why it took 17l of oil to fill. I also have the long dipstick, mounted mid engine (front of deep section of sump). When the oil level is in the "safe" zone it is probably too high at the rear of the sump. I think I should move the dipstick to the rear of the engine. I can see another port for it, with a recessed plug. Any ideas on how to remove the plug? Also, is the end of the dipstick tube a screw in or push in fitting? Thanks for the help. Cheers Tony

The dipstick is a push in, the plug in the back hole is like a welsh plug so a small hole and self tapper will remove it, Then either solder or silicone the hole up and push it in the hole where your dipstick is at the moment.

Peter
I have just had a 6BT fitted to my OKA 295 and taken it for its first trip up the Kimberly and it’s done about 4000 fairly hard hot km and due for an oil change
Because it will live in Broome and do all of it traveling up north what oil would you recommend
Thanks
Rainer

FUCHS H D 40

A heavy duty 4x4 oil 40 weight

available from COV's & Fuchs suplyeres

good for T/C & G/box

Or if the engine is broken in then, Red Line fully synthetic, SAE 15W40
You could send a sample away once every 6 or 12 months for testing and use that to determine when to change it.

I would still change filters often, just not the oil.

4000kms is nothing in my opinion. Remember these are a commercial engine. They are not as sooty as a Patrol or Cruiser engine. Also they have a lot more oil as well. I think you would be safe with 10 to 15k in my opinion.

Also much better to use a good mineral based oil. Again these engine are old school,

Cummins quite clear on the subject of B Series lubes. 15W40 SHPD lube oil to US API: CI-4/CH-4/CG-4SL Euro ACEA: E7/E5/E3/B4/B3/A3 Meeting Cummins: 20071/72/76/77/78 Mineral lube. Synthetic lubes ONLY approved for low temperature operation. As long as it meets the above spec life is good.

I think Lobo is right 4000km's is a bit early considering the cost of oil. Remember that these engines in an industrial application could well be doing 250 hours between changes. For me I would sometimes be changing oil after 4 days of driving. I won't hesitate to do 10 to 15 between changes if it's long km's done over a few weeks. When I could get it I was running Conoco oil in my Cruiser and I ran nearly double the service intervals with no side effects. At 470000km when it was rebuild because of an unrelated failure there where still hone marks in the bore and the crank could have gone straight back in. At the time there were truck companies running 3 times the service interval with oil sampling. I now run Caltex Delo 400 and am happy with this.

Rob

I just run Castrol RX Super 15W40 as that is what the tractor places in town sell at a good price in bulk, changes are generally 10k with a filter, oil is relatively cheap compared to engines.

We can all bear witness and testimony to our favourite oil.
However at some point one could google about it and work out which oils have actually been scientifically tested.

And there are places that actually test oil, which is pretty common for big diesels like gensets. And then one does not change the oil unless it needs changing.
250 hours, or more, is not uncommon.

Whilst I agree with all....

Just remember a stationary engine probably doesn't have to put up with varying loads, possibly dust containtmation, temperature cycles.etc.

I think it would be safe at around 10k, any further then perhaps Oil Sampling.There are several companies that offer it. A lot of mine vehicles etc have oil sampling done regularly.

well it is Sunday, and oil options are like a religion.