LT Hubs repack intervals.....20,000klm?

LT service schedule calls for hubs to be re-packed at 20,000 klm intervals....what are people in the real world doing in this department....seems like quite a task, not looking forward to it...so what are reasonable intervals pls?

David it varies, if i've been doing a lot of travelling rough roads, lot's of 4wding then yes about every 20k kms but that has been lately avery few years as we've not been travellig as much as in the past.
If you've been doing deep water crossings or have been bogged in mud a water etc then I do it as soon as possible afterwards.
I was told many years ago by a mechanic that never use HTB on 4wd and trailer hubs as due to the size on 4wd's they rarely get hot enough to melt the grease to get it to flow, the same on small trailers without brakes.
I've always used a blue very tacky grease called APX but castrol changed the name a few years back and it's called something else now. It works really well as on a few occasions the trailer has gone for 5 or 6 years netween bearing repacks and the grease is still good after a long time. I've not had any wheel bearing problems with either the Oka or trailer in over 40 years so must be ok.I reckon the Oka has gone for 40 or 50k between repacks over the years.

Thanks Peter I'll get onto it tomorrow then!
Any tips as I've not done a bearing re-pack on the OKA - just a light trailer.
D

Have spare inner hub seals before you start as they are the most likely failure point, also spare star washers for the front locknuts and of course a hub nut spanner is you still have the standard lock nut setup.
I do have a complete spare bearing set just in case as well.
When doing the rears, make sure you have enough room to get the axle out and make sure that the side you are working on is higher than the other side or diff oil will run out.
On the rears I just pull the axle out enough to check the preload is ok as they are lubed by the diff oil. If they are loose then you will have to puul the axle right out to adjust them, you don't have to take the wheel off either but it can make it hard to feel how much preload they have with it on.

Ah, more learning, thanks. So the fronts are lubed by grease and the rears use the diff oil. I can't find any data on pre-load values for either end. Any tips? Also is the only special tool the huge box spanner? Thanks!

I've been doing 4wd hubs since the early 70's so just do them by hand/feel, never had any fail so must be close, basically the same as trailer hub etc, no freeeplay and no binding.
Of course you have to remove the brake calipers to remove the hubs and the free wheel hubs have there own fiddly things to do depending on which ones you have, Just look for the appropriate manusl for how to get them off and on.
the Oka manuals only have a basic description of the diffs and axles as i refers you to the Dana 60 or 70 manual for the detail.The Dana 60 manual says to tighten the inner nut to 50 ft/lbs, rotate hub back and forth a few times to seat rhe bearings, back it off a1/4 turn, after fitting tab washer tighten the outer nut to 50lb/ft and freeplay shuuld be 1 to 10 thou !.
I just do it by feel..

thanks once more Peter, your experience is very useful to me and thanks again for taking the time to share it. Much appreciated.